Jump to content
SAU Community

Port And Pollish On R34 Gtt

BeAgLe

By BeAgLe,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BeAgLe Community Regular

BeAgLe

Posted
Posted

Hey,

A mate of a mate of mine offered me a cheap port and pollish for my R34 GTT yesterday and was wondering if i should go ahead with it or not.

I have some understanding of what is involved but i just wanted to get more info before i do anything about it.

What are the pros and cons of doing it and has anyone else done it to there GTT?

Is there a noticeable power gain and saving on economy?

He said he will do it for $50 / cylinder = $300 plus the cost of getting the head re-done and it will take about 2 days... is that a decent price?

Would people recommend it, and if not, why?

Any comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130142-port-and-pollish-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

What do you mean the "head re-done" and how much for that? Last time I checked that part of it would cost $500-600 making the total $900ish which is still cheapish but do you need it? We need more info on your setup to answer that question.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

yeh its worth it...if your engine is already pulled out and apart and your doing other mods to it. But just for the sake of pulling your std motor apart and getting the head port n polished and then faced with a maybe on the valves if thats what hes referring to for the 'head redone' then its prob not worth the hassle for the money even if it is cheap.

BeAgLe Community Regular

BeAgLe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey,

Thanks for the replies guys!

Yeah, i am using the stock turbo right now with no plans to upgrade it till it dies...

I still have stock ECU, injectors, fuel pump etc...

My current performance mods are:

- Air pod

- Exhaust

- 600mm FMIC using stock piping

I think he meant getting the head machined or something, and he mentioned something about the lifters too...

The car only has 56,000kms and hasnt been flogged from what i can tell, so the engine still should be in very decent condition... He recommends getting it done as it is a decent price and gives you more power etc... but if its gonna cost another $500 - $600 for the head, i think i'll leave it.

Next time i see him ill ask what exactly needs to be done to it, coz he said he has to get that done by someone else as he doesnt have the equipment to do it... i thought he said its around $150 though? I'll have to double check.

Thanks all.

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted
I think he meant getting the head machined or something, and he mentioned something about the lifters too...

I'm probably way off the mark here.. but isn't the idea of machining your head to increase compression? Don't you want to decrease it?

Tell me if i'm wrong guys.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Depends which part of the head you machine.

Another couple of costs you seem to have forgotten about are a new head gasket and labour.

Also with stock everything there is absolutely no point whatsoever in doing this mod.

DON'T DO IT.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

I say otherwise; DO IT :P

Change the head gasket; change the valve springs; camshafts; valves... replace head studs; do the port and polish and end up with a race-prepped head!

Sure you might live in a cardboard box after; but you know it ain't stock no more!!!

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted
I say otherwise; DO IT :P

Change the head gasket; change the valve springs; camshafts; valves... replace head studs; do the port and polish and end up with a race-prepped head!

Sure you might live in a cardboard box after; but you know it ain't stock no more!!!

Ignore this person. He is an ass.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
waste of time for your set-up. $1000 could be spend elsewhere for much better gains.

Agreed

Far better bang for buck mods witrh your setup.

I could think of around 8 grand you can spend elsewhere before even coming close to needing porting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...