Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Darn it aye, was hoping I wouldnt need to get a boost gauge

I thought they were either all inaccurate past the standard boost levels, or they were pretty much spot on.

I believe they are electrical gauges. Alot of the top brands sell electrical ones too, does this mean that they are also relateively inaccurate? Perhaps the boost sensor on the R34's isnt as good quality.

There is no real reason why the stock boost guages would be highly innaccurate, unless the sender has failed?

IMHO usually people go for aftermarket boost guages (and oil pressure and water temp) as they have more increments and are easier to read. With only 4 increments or so on the stock one its quite hard to read accurately. The difference between 12psi and 14psi is hard to judge for example, and one is safe and the other is possibly not.

ive got autometer cobalts on mine (boost/vac on an xr6 turbo). my gauge is pretty accurate when there is constant acceleration (auto, gauge is mechanical), however when i floor it and it kicks down a gear, it spikes up to 10psi, and then returns to 6psi.

my gauge also lags abit because i have kinks in the nylon tubing, which i will be replacing soon.

Its good to have a nother gauge but not really needed.

In my R33 I occassionally use an old pressure gauge I have that is fairly accurate to check the boost and see where it sits on the factory gauge.

I dont leave this connected and just have a glance at the stock gauge to see eveything is ok.

Stock gauges (iff same as R33) are a pressure transducer that sends a 0-4.5v (I think) signal to the dash.

I took a multimeter to it once but can't remmber the vs at atmospheric pressure (May have been 1.25 or 2.25v)

So it would be a 2bar MAP sensor...

0-1bar is vacuum

1-2 bar boost - due to turbo

+1 on the gauge would be about 14psi-15psi

Yeah Ive got a pivot stepping motor boost guage on my r32, it seems the stock one is pretty close.

With just a cat back and filter its running 0.7-0.75bar which is 10-11psi i guess.

The conversion from 100mmHg (what the factory guage is in) to psi is times by 1.934. So +7 on the factory guage is 13.5psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...