Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Darn it aye, was hoping I wouldnt need to get a boost gauge

I thought they were either all inaccurate past the standard boost levels, or they were pretty much spot on.

I believe they are electrical gauges. Alot of the top brands sell electrical ones too, does this mean that they are also relateively inaccurate? Perhaps the boost sensor on the R34's isnt as good quality.

There is no real reason why the stock boost guages would be highly innaccurate, unless the sender has failed?

IMHO usually people go for aftermarket boost guages (and oil pressure and water temp) as they have more increments and are easier to read. With only 4 increments or so on the stock one its quite hard to read accurately. The difference between 12psi and 14psi is hard to judge for example, and one is safe and the other is possibly not.

ive got autometer cobalts on mine (boost/vac on an xr6 turbo). my gauge is pretty accurate when there is constant acceleration (auto, gauge is mechanical), however when i floor it and it kicks down a gear, it spikes up to 10psi, and then returns to 6psi.

my gauge also lags abit because i have kinks in the nylon tubing, which i will be replacing soon.

Its good to have a nother gauge but not really needed.

In my R33 I occassionally use an old pressure gauge I have that is fairly accurate to check the boost and see where it sits on the factory gauge.

I dont leave this connected and just have a glance at the stock gauge to see eveything is ok.

Stock gauges (iff same as R33) are a pressure transducer that sends a 0-4.5v (I think) signal to the dash.

I took a multimeter to it once but can't remmber the vs at atmospheric pressure (May have been 1.25 or 2.25v)

So it would be a 2bar MAP sensor...

0-1bar is vacuum

1-2 bar boost - due to turbo

+1 on the gauge would be about 14psi-15psi

Yeah Ive got a pivot stepping motor boost guage on my r32, it seems the stock one is pretty close.

With just a cat back and filter its running 0.7-0.75bar which is 10-11psi i guess.

The conversion from 100mmHg (what the factory guage is in) to psi is times by 1.934. So +7 on the factory guage is 13.5psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...