Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Boost Gauge

nuffsaid

By nuffsaid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Darn it aye, was hoping I wouldnt need to get a boost gauge

I thought they were either all inaccurate past the standard boost levels, or they were pretty much spot on.

I believe they are electrical gauges. Alot of the top brands sell electrical ones too, does this mean that they are also relateively inaccurate? Perhaps the boost sensor on the R34's isnt as good quality.

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

There is no real reason why the stock boost guages would be highly innaccurate, unless the sender has failed?

IMHO usually people go for aftermarket boost guages (and oil pressure and water temp) as they have more increments and are easier to read. With only 4 increments or so on the stock one its quite hard to read accurately. The difference between 12psi and 14psi is hard to judge for example, and one is safe and the other is possibly not.

32GTRB Proficient

32GTRB

Posted
Posted

ive got autometer cobalts on mine (boost/vac on an xr6 turbo). my gauge is pretty accurate when there is constant acceleration (auto, gauge is mechanical), however when i floor it and it kicks down a gear, it spikes up to 10psi, and then returns to 6psi.

my gauge also lags abit because i have kinks in the nylon tubing, which i will be replacing soon.

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Its good to have a nother gauge but not really needed.

In my R33 I occassionally use an old pressure gauge I have that is fairly accurate to check the boost and see where it sits on the factory gauge.

I dont leave this connected and just have a glance at the stock gauge to see eveything is ok.

Stock gauges (iff same as R33) are a pressure transducer that sends a 0-4.5v (I think) signal to the dash.

I took a multimeter to it once but can't remmber the vs at atmospheric pressure (May have been 1.25 or 2.25v)

So it would be a 2bar MAP sensor...

0-1bar is vacuum

1-2 bar boost - due to turbo

+1 on the gauge would be about 14psi-15psi

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Yeah Ive got a pivot stepping motor boost guage on my r32, it seems the stock one is pretty close.

With just a cat back and filter its running 0.7-0.75bar which is 10-11psi i guess.

The conversion from 100mmHg (what the factory guage is in) to psi is times by 1.934. So +7 on the factory guage is 13.5psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...