Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres a dyno graph of my RB20....

drop in boost was caused by faulty new BOV(grrrrr) but after removal the tuner called me and said it made around 260 on constant 18psi

ill update the results thread once i get the new graph

turbo is a td06 20g not sure about exhaust housing but most likely 10cm also got all the usual supporting mods

let me know what ya think any opinions are good cheers

post-6400-1155888616.jpg

post-6400-1156244063.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130813-rb20-powah-full-update-new-graph/
Share on other sites

wow what a power curve.

looks good.....how is it to drive?

congrats

funnily enough havent had a chance to drive it.. still a few more days in the workshop for coldstart tuning

and then after that it needs a blueslip n re rego and to get kit fitted so its still probably a month out from being road ready

awsum to see another 2.0l pushin the limits, kw at the wheels is all good and that, but nothing is better then the piece of mind that it can do it without drama's day in day out... go teh rb20. p.s silver 32, where did u get ur front bar? and how much, i got a silver one aswell so its good to compare lol

small but exciting update:

they ran it on 24 psi today and it pulled 280kw at the wheels. hoping to have a graph by tommorow night

he said on the 19 psi which it will be run on usually it was around 250

but should have exact figures and graphs by tommorow

i hugely recommend Nepean District Automotive who are tuning it!!

awesome! its good to see there are still people up to the challenge of getting an RB20 to make good power rather than just folding and getting an RB25 or 26.

I'm in the process of building my RB20 with stronger internals, with all the gear i've got i'll be hitting the 250rwkw mark with more to spare.

even though milk and juice only comes in 2 litres, its the fastest milk and juice

they've ever seen

cheap wine comes in 5 litres for all those holden 5 litre boys :)

keep up the good work

It will be interesting to see how the final tune ends up. Is this the RB with lucky internals?

I am getting so anxious about getting my car back on the road, and the dyno for a checkup with a good EBC and some more boost

Good to see your finally getting the old girl running

Damn how much tuning you done!!! Its on file 203!!

When its all done please show a graph with a boost trace as well.

Good to hear the tuner wants to keep it a few days to sort cold start, thats a good sign.

Congratulations.

Edited by FATGTS-R

hahaha couldnt afford the banana in the tailpipe

engine mods are unknown exactly but sold from jap as being stroked out to 2.2 litres

sadly the 203 is correct... full tune then fuel reg died ... then bov died etc etc... never seems to end

yups has 25 box and hks twin plate

I am getting so anxious about getting my car back on the road, and the dyno for a checkup with a good EBC and some more boost

you still keen to get your beast checked out on DrDrifts dyno? i'm free all this week :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...