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that first one was for one of the testers in sydney. im happy with results so far, so ill make urs on the weekend. if further testing finds any major bugs, u can send it back at some point and i can upgrade the firmward on it.

so testing today found out one main thing, that on a 300ZX, there is only one AFM (i assumed two), and my device assumes that if it has 2 O2 sensors, it must have 2 AFMS (but 300zx doesnt), so it wasnt showing the RH o2 sensor. aside from that, all was good.

someone tell prank to check his pm and/or this thread!

Edited by NewKleer
that first one was for one of the testers in sydney. im happy with results so far, so ill make urs on the weekend. if further testing finds any major bugs, u can send it back at some point and i can upgrade the firmward on it.

so testing today found out one main thing, that on a 300ZX, there is only one AFM (i assumed two), and my device assumes that if it has 2 O2 sensors, it must have 2 AFMS (but 300zx doesnt), so it wasnt showing the RH o2 sensor. aside from that, all was good.

someone tell prank to check his pm and/or this thread!

All is going well so far, its already helped me diagnose a running lean problem thanks to the peak hold function, injectors are maxing out under full boost. Screen is very visible, even in direct sunlight, and the backlight is mild enough to be visible at night without being overly bright. Now i have to do something about fuel pressures.

Obviously cant check 0-60's and so on yet until i sort my leaning problems.

post-536-1158967302.jpg

post-536-1158967327.jpg

thanks for the pics

one other bug i forgot to mention was peak values showed 0.0v at one point - this was because when u exit out of the options, it will clear max tps value (in case u have changed from % or volts, so u dont get it saying max was "100v" for example). i can fix this by checking what it is when u enter options, and clear max if uve changed the setting

keeping list of issues/bugs found in testing on my site here: http://www.ecutalk.com/index.php?option=co...4&Itemid=46

only other one to add is distance calcs are sometimes a bit off in time trials, suspected when decel that accel is being recorded as positive rather than negative and making distance jump considerably.

it depends on how many people currently on the list (65 on here + pga combined) go ahead and get one - unless 15 or more pull out, then you might miss first go.

if it looks like theres gonna be a fair few who miss out, then i might try get second lot started asap so it will continue after this one (if not many then i might have a bit of a break)

Pluged it in and it said cant connect to ECU!

Damn I thought, just my luck.

Then remembered the LCD / Laptop Switch! :happy:

WORKS WELL!! Diagnosed my problem with IGN and Knock signals faulty so need to track through the wiring. Was OK before pulling the motor recently so must have broken a heat stressed cable wire somewhere in the loom.

Also noticed my TPS only goes to 85% at flat throttle so prob need to adj it on the Throttle body so it goes to 100% ? anyone?

Pluged it in and it said cant connect to ECU!

Damn I thought, just my luck.

Then remembered the LCD / Laptop Switch! :happy:

Also noticed my TPS only goes to 85% at flat throttle so prob need to adj it on the Throttle body so it goes to 100% ? anyone?

in v0.3 and up ive added "Check Switch?" to that connect failed message just to remind people about the switch. also i probably need to better explain that the two circuits (lcd and consult interface) dont "know" about each other, so if ur in the middle of viewing sensors and u switch across, it will assume its been disconnected. likewise the serial port can only hook up to ecu, it cant talk to the chip running the lcd at all (and hence no way u can do anything like update the firmware from a PC, it needs special hardware/programmer)

as ive told those who've picked up (forgot to mention it to you), the TPS % can only go off the min and max TPS voltages, and use that range for the 0-100% values (eg 0.5 is 0% and 4.4 is 100%). some ecu's do some form of self check where they will exceed the max TPS voltage, and hence the unit thinks that the max voltage is something higher than possible.

could u try switching to volts, then back to % in options for TPS (this clears the min/max) then try no throttle/full throttle, and see if that sets up the percentage right.

then try turn car off then back to ign on, and try full throttle again. if when u do this, it goes back to a max of 85%, then it must be a thing that happens on ecu startup. i can probably set a timer so that it ignores the tps values for 10 seconds or something?

i initially didnt want to do a %age, because every ecu/tps is slightly different, and there is no universal %age for TPS - tps is a voltage as retrieved via consult (you cant retrieve a percentage). so best it can do is guess what the range is by using the min/max tps voltage values and work out a percent from there.

Loving mine dude, my tps would always sit on 8% but ill do that trick and reset it.

found error codes 54 AT control line, wtf is that

and a problem with cat or cat sensor....

i LOVE the usability with laptop and being able to see what the car is doing and temperatures that shes getting...

great product!

oh to add to the tps thing, i rememeber on one of the cars, the tps min/max changed when car was/wasnt running?

ie if u switch ur tps to volts, then turn ign on (dont start), see what ur min/max are, then turn on car, and see what min/max are?

if someone can do that, if the values are different, then i think thats the cause. if thats the case i can try and change it to only consider the tps values for the %age when the car has started (eg rpm > 500?)

haysey, can u get ur ECU number (23710 - ?????) from a consult program and post it here? i might be able to then check if ur ECU is a AT or MT one

Edited by NewKleer

Make shore you guys are looking at the road not at the Consult Lcd Display all the time a crash is always bad and worse if it is in a skyline.>_<

also can you wire this one in to the ecu because I have a rb25 in a r32 gtst and the wiring might not be there.

TAHNKS :laugh:

Edited by RB SANDY

(thought i already posted a reply, but its gone? D:)

yes you can wire one in. find a ecu pinout for ur ECU (its a stock ecu right?). get a female consult port connector ( http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/images_if/...t_connector.jpg ) from a n14 pulsar (most common) from wreckers (assuming you dont have one)

then as you can see in that picture, u have:

top row: RX TX, x x, x CHK, IGN

btm row: GND CLK, x x, x x, x

x = dont care pins. you dont need to wire up the CHK one if u dont want (its only needed for the manual error codes on the check engine light or whatever). you will find the appropriate wires on ecu pinout (IGN = 12V switch ign power, rest should be named similarly)

if u already have the port, just confirm its wired up right with a continuity test with multimeter from plug to ECU

Edited by NewKleer

finally fixed issue with distance counting, i found out that whenever distance went over 9999.9m (ie 10km) i was setting it to 99999.9m - this was supposed to be whenever it went to 100km it would keep it displaying 99999.9km so as not to go off edge of screen.

only issue remaining is that of TPS percentages (and how sometimes it will show >0% for closed thorrtle, and <100% for WOT). ive asked the testers if they can check the tps volts when car is/isnt running and see if min/max voltages (which are used to work out the %) change (eg maybe it shows higher/lower voltages when running/not running, which will then screw up %)

im half way thru making about 10 displays, so ill have some ready when testing is "finished". ill be asking people high on list to start giving me those 10 points of info (at end of first post or start of second)

Hey Peter,

I tested the time trial for the 0-160 and my odometer read 54.1 kms and the consult read 53.6 - that was this morning down the F3.

Also my hicas light comes on down the F3 everyday. Should this be then throwing up a fault code? Checked it before I switched it off this monrning but came back no errors (HICAS light was still on). :P

thanks for that, 99% accuracy is better than i would have hoped!

HICAS is a different subsystem to ECU (as is the AT) - the ECU doesnt know about any HICAS faults, so it cant tell the display about any HICAS faults.

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