Jump to content
SAU Community

Crank Pully Removal

icydude

By icydude,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

icydude Community Regular

icydude

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

I have the rad removed from my car and the head its ready to be removed. I am not wondering how i go about removing the crank pully.

all the belts are loose and now i just need to get the timing belt off.

I am aware that the bolt will be torqued to 340 ft/lbs.

Now what i need to know is what size is the head on the crank bolt and how to i stop the engine from rotating around.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131754-crank-pully-removal/
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

the usual way to get these bolts cracked is to have a breaker bar kind of wedged onto the ground and then cranking your motor. that will loosen the bolt. its 27mm from memory.. if not that its 24mm.

you could probably get a long breaker bar and lever it off. you can probably stop the engine from turning by sticking it into 1st. someone will correct me if im wrong.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

4th will be harder to crank because it's a taller gear, if you're using the engine-crank method, then 1st is the go. And only for one second.

After the bolt is off, you'll probably need to use a puller. There are two different types. One has arms that pull on the outer lip of the balancer, and the other uses the two spare holes in the balancer for leverage. Both use a big bolt that pushes into the centre where the nut was removed.

The first type actually broke my balancer in three places, the second one worked but was much harder to wind on.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

And if its already out of the car, 2 flywheel bolts back, a pry bar between wedged against the engine stand.

Then big socket, breaker bar and the longest strong pipe you can find over the end, those galvanised fence posts work a treat. Pull until bolt comes undone or socket breaks. If 1 sit down and have a beer, if 2 buy a new stronger socket

Once thats done you need a balancer puller to pull it off....bolt back in loosely, screw 3 bolts into the holes in the balancer and screw it off slowly.

After that is the timing belt gear which is the same again, a puller over the top and some patience.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted
If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

Haha very funny. I was thinking the same. To replace the cam gears first install the inlet gear and fit belt then set belt on exhaust gear and work it accross until it slips onto the end of the cam shaft. Use patients and you will get there. The 2nd time i did mine thats how Geoff showed me to do it!

32R Apprentice

32R

Posted
Posted
If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

GTR bolt is 30mm....

icydude Community Regular

icydude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ran into a slight problem.

i went to go put the m6x1.00 bolts into the crank pully and it turns out the last person who pulled the pully off broke a m6 bolt on in it.

so now i have one bolt hole.

What am i to do now?

i sure as hell do not want to removed my entire front end.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep yep... Dunno where I got that from! Thanks for being so harsh, grigor.

I certainly didn't have mine in any gear when I cranked the motor over.

The second time we pulled it off, we had it in 4th (as I said was correct, btw) and the breaker bar did it for us.

I guess i'll try and redeem myself from the 1st gear thing and add:

Unplug CAS when cranking over so the motor doesn't actually start. I know your motor is out of the car, but just incase someone tries this "in-car".

Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

Edited by RANDY
grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted

Hey I'm a cranky old fart.

When ever I see guys using the starter to remove the balancer bolt I go Ape.

There's a rough way and there's the correct way to do a job.

Like removing the master pins from crawler tracks with a jelignite gun.

It gets the job done but it's just plain stupid.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

yep. woodruff keys arent something you want to lose. there are 2 of them. put them somewhere safe.

icydude Community Regular

icydude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is one locator as the crank pully only has a location for one.

Also i used a 4 inch 3 arm puller and a can of wd40 and took my time and slowly pulled it off watching the rubber inside very very closely.

Also the crank bolt was not on tight at all, kind of scary how loose it was.

I removed it testing to see if the clutch would be holding then i slipped and cracked the bolt with a standard 1/2 inch socket :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...