Jump to content
SAU Community

Crank Pully Removal

icydude

By icydude,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

icydude Community Regular

icydude

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

I have the rad removed from my car and the head its ready to be removed. I am not wondering how i go about removing the crank pully.

all the belts are loose and now i just need to get the timing belt off.

I am aware that the bolt will be torqued to 340 ft/lbs.

Now what i need to know is what size is the head on the crank bolt and how to i stop the engine from rotating around.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131754-crank-pully-removal/
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

the usual way to get these bolts cracked is to have a breaker bar kind of wedged onto the ground and then cranking your motor. that will loosen the bolt. its 27mm from memory.. if not that its 24mm.

you could probably get a long breaker bar and lever it off. you can probably stop the engine from turning by sticking it into 1st. someone will correct me if im wrong.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

4th will be harder to crank because it's a taller gear, if you're using the engine-crank method, then 1st is the go. And only for one second.

After the bolt is off, you'll probably need to use a puller. There are two different types. One has arms that pull on the outer lip of the balancer, and the other uses the two spare holes in the balancer for leverage. Both use a big bolt that pushes into the centre where the nut was removed.

The first type actually broke my balancer in three places, the second one worked but was much harder to wind on.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

And if its already out of the car, 2 flywheel bolts back, a pry bar between wedged against the engine stand.

Then big socket, breaker bar and the longest strong pipe you can find over the end, those galvanised fence posts work a treat. Pull until bolt comes undone or socket breaks. If 1 sit down and have a beer, if 2 buy a new stronger socket

Once thats done you need a balancer puller to pull it off....bolt back in loosely, screw 3 bolts into the holes in the balancer and screw it off slowly.

After that is the timing belt gear which is the same again, a puller over the top and some patience.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted
If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

Haha very funny. I was thinking the same. To replace the cam gears first install the inlet gear and fit belt then set belt on exhaust gear and work it accross until it slips onto the end of the cam shaft. Use patients and you will get there. The 2nd time i did mine thats how Geoff showed me to do it!

32R Apprentice

32R

Posted
Posted
If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier).

If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968!

If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

GTR bolt is 30mm....

icydude Community Regular

icydude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ran into a slight problem.

i went to go put the m6x1.00 bolts into the crank pully and it turns out the last person who pulled the pully off broke a m6 bolt on in it.

so now i have one bolt hole.

What am i to do now?

i sure as hell do not want to removed my entire front end.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep yep... Dunno where I got that from! Thanks for being so harsh, grigor.

I certainly didn't have mine in any gear when I cranked the motor over.

The second time we pulled it off, we had it in 4th (as I said was correct, btw) and the breaker bar did it for us.

I guess i'll try and redeem myself from the 1st gear thing and add:

Unplug CAS when cranking over so the motor doesn't actually start. I know your motor is out of the car, but just incase someone tries this "in-car".

Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

Edited by RANDY
grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted

Hey I'm a cranky old fart.

When ever I see guys using the starter to remove the balancer bolt I go Ape.

There's a rough way and there's the correct way to do a job.

Like removing the master pins from crawler tracks with a jelignite gun.

It gets the job done but it's just plain stupid.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

yep. woodruff keys arent something you want to lose. there are 2 of them. put them somewhere safe.

icydude Community Regular

icydude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is one locator as the crank pully only has a location for one.

Also i used a 4 inch 3 arm puller and a can of wd40 and took my time and slowly pulled it off watching the rubber inside very very closely.

Also the crank bolt was not on tight at all, kind of scary how loose it was.

I removed it testing to see if the clutch would be holding then i slipped and cracked the bolt with a standard 1/2 inch socket :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...