Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will tell you places that I have used, and been happy with (places I have not been happy with I wont coment on).

Annandale Automotive, Annandale

Unique Autosports, castle hill

Jade Automotive, leppington (near oran park circuit)

These three are all great places that I have personally used. Would happily reccomend either of them.

Please dont go to Unique, they couldnt even install my turbo timer properly :)

How bout you get a real car then. Best mechanics in sydney. Dont bag a workshop that has such a great rep. Im sure your experience was a ONE OFF.(by the way - how can u not install a turbo timer properly???)

They specialise in lines and zeds. If ya wanna start bagging business's then I can name at least 3 BIG workshops that are actually dodgy as all hell but I dont think its ethical to do it on a national forum. Unique are expensive but IMO you get what you pay for and your paying for the best

Keep your insignificant negative comments to yourself next time

There are SOOOOOOOOO many SAU members on here that can vouch for UAS and are regular and loyal customers and John (the owner/manager of UAS) is actually a member and poster on these forums. Be very careful about you say...

Edited by FSTR32
How bout you get a real car then. Best mechanics in sydney. Dont bag a workshop that has such a great rep. Im sure your experience was a ONE OFF.(by the way - how can u not install a turbo timer properly???)

They specialise in lines and zeds. If ya wanna start bagging business's then I can name at least 3 BIG workshops that are actually dodgy as all hell but I dont think its ethical to do it on a national forum. Unique are expensive but IMO you get what you pay for and your paying for the best

Keep your insignificant negative comments to yourself next time

There are SOOOOOOOOO many SAU members on here that can vouch for UAS and are regular and loyal customers and John (the owner/manager of UAS) is actually a member and poster on these forums. Be very careful about you say...

Hahahaha man u sound so cut, whats the matter u handed over half ur life savings to them and now your ego is bruised? Im only trying to warn someone to not waste their money at a substandard overhyped workshop.

I believed all the crap i read about them being so awesome too. Truth of the matter is they installed my greddy turbo timer i bought in tokyo and not one of the extra functions(battery voltage display etc) on it worked once. Very occasionally the main function(turbo timer) would work, but rarely. I presumed it was just a faulty brand new timer as UAS couldnt possibly be so incompetent. Then about a year later a bogan(specialising in Falcodores) auto electrician took a look at it and fixed it all up 100% for about 1/3 the charge of UAS . Not to mention the fact that UAS told me i needed a new headgasket when all i had was a coolant leak and faulty CAS. Or the time i asked them to setup my boost controller and they told me (after charging thru the nose) that they put the boost as high as they could without my car leaning out.I believed them till i drove home and the car was making 8.5psi :) Got it dynoed a week later at N.A.S and the afr were still on the rich side and we safely wound the boost up to 12psi. But hey Im sure your car is AWESOME and Im sure there has been good mechanics working there at some point, just not when i visited :rofl:

wateva. let this be a little warning to you. Posting negative coments about a business is not permitted in this open forum. That may seem one sided to you, but that's the way it is to protect the forum owner. Do it again and you will incurr my wrath in the form of a warning, suspension or ban depending on what the situation warrants.

In line with the forum practice I was about to moderate your posts and remove any reference to a business name. BUT the owner of that business asked me to leave it as is. He tells me he has nothing to hide and your coments may stay. Given this (positive) attitude I would contact him directly if you have any problems with their work, and if a mistake was made (IF) then at least give them the opportunity to correct it. Whether you edit your posts is up to you, but I would suggest that it's the right thing to do.

Wow sounds like poor service. Hard to please all the people all the time and with the huge amount of cars we work on bound to have something go wrong. Love to know who you are and what car etc. Might reply to my PM.

We have three awesome mechanics at the moment. did the apprentice thing a few years back but no more. Did you bring it back to us to rectify at all??

Edited by Boosted Zed

I've had work done at Unique Autosports. Ben's great. He's actually working on it this week too.

We've also taken my girlfriends 32 there and had a new clutch master fitted when no one else could get us a brand new one.

I'd recommend UAS to anyone with a Skyline.

Hahahaha man u sound so cut, whats the matter u handed over half ur life savings to them and now your ego is bruised? Im only trying to warn someone to not waste their money at a substandard overhyped workshop.

I believed all the crap i read about them being so awesome too. Truth of the matter is they installed my greddy turbo timer i bought in tokyo and not one of the extra functions(battery voltage display etc) on it worked once. Very occasionally the main function(turbo timer) would work, but rarely. I presumed it was just a faulty brand new timer as UAS couldnt possibly be so incompetent. Then about a year later a bogan(specialising in Falcodores) auto electrician took a look at it and fixed it all up 100% for about 1/3 the charge of UAS . Not to mention the fact that UAS told me i needed a new headgasket when all i had was a coolant leak and faulty CAS. Or the time i asked them to setup my boost controller and they told me (after charging thru the nose) that they put the boost as high as they could without my car leaning out.I believed them till i drove home and the car was making 8.5psi :) Got it dynoed a week later at N.A.S and the afr were still on the rich side and we safely wound the boost up to 12psi. But hey Im sure your car is AWESOME and Im sure there has been good mechanics working there at some point, just not when i visited :rofl:

Blah Blah Blah

Let me guess, you didnt bother to go back to them or call them and give them the chance to resolve the problems?

Regarding your boost issue, obviously UAS had a concern about putting any more boost through your engine - would you have preferred them to just wind it up anyway and run the risk of possible engine damage? Come on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...