Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for that matey.

Does anyone know what the model GGKBRTFR34UDA-KJB- tells me about the car? btw its a 98 R34 GTT.

I have searched this thread but there isnt much that deciphers R34 codes.

Thanks

I got the same problem, except I am trying to get the Stagea code translated.........

Hey Guys!

I was wondering if anyone was able to tell me the part #'s for the pedal box in an R34 GT-t and an R33 GTS-t?

Sorry dude I would not have a clue what I am looking for.........?

I was wondering if anyone was able to tell me the part #'s for the pedal box in an R34 GT-t and an R33 GTS-t?

I can tell you that, but clutch and brake have separate pedal boxes since the R31 models. Anyway for 98-99 R34 GTT the pedal box PN's are (Nissan call them 'brackets'):

Clutch (no pedal) - 46550-AA000

Brake (with pedal) - 46551-AA000

[don't ask me why one comes with and one without a pedal....I have NFI]

For an early series 1 R33 GTS-t, the PN's are (same situation as described above):

Clutch (no pedal) - 46550-21U00

Brake (with pedal) - 46551-70T00

There appear to be a number of running production changes shown in FAST for R33's, so an exact VIN would be needed to tie-down the correct PN's (eg cars with cruise control have a different PN for the brake pedal assy).

Hope that helps

GGKBRTFR34UDA-KJB-

Some of it is:

G = ?? (2 something-or-other; sometimes this indicates the plant In Japan where the car was made)

GK = RB25DE or RB25DET

B = 2WD (2 wheel drive)

R = ??

T = GTT, GTV, GTXT, GT4, GT4/L, GTX4

F = ?? (5 something-or-other, I'd say 5 speed manual)

R34 = well........

U = ??

D = ??

A = ??

- = not relevant

K = ?? (some sort of option)

J = ?? (some sort of option)

B = ?? (some sort of option)

- = not relevant

I have a feeling someone else posted some info about what these codes mean. You need an English version of FAST or the someone that can interpret the Japanese version.

Is that an aussie built R32? Hey have you still got the AU FAST?

they are no aussie built R32s or 33s or 34s for that matter. all built in japan mate. also there are no aussie delivered 32 GTSTs either. only 100 GTRs and they are all 1990 or 1991 off the top of my head.

they are no aussie built R32s or 33s or 34s for that matter. all built in japan mate. also there are no aussie delivered 32 GTSTs either. only 100 GTRs and they are all 1990 or 1991 off the top of my head.

Cool thanks for that info!

does anyone have suggestions as to why my chassis number doesnt come up in the FAST software? could this mean something bad??? im stressed!!

Wouldn't get stressed about, might be simple as a database error which could have been fixed in a later version of FAST than we have access to. You need to go back and double check that number on the manufacturing ID plate attached to the firewall - it's usually blue - just to be sure.

I'm using the 2005 FAST and it seems to work on it. Although your VIN dosen't seem to come up, nor the details of your car, just the build date. So I'd say someone made a mistake during the data entry back in 1993 :rolleyes:

And yes we do have the Aussie FAST databases, but it dosen't have any Skylines in it, only cars manufactured in Australia.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...