Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i tried doing this with mine and it didnt work :rofl: so i sold the rsm and got a navara drive

Damn, that sucks. So I hafta get a new speedo cable with the plastic bit in one piece aswell. I've already ordered a AVC-R, haha, at least its a good boost controller, not just a speedo.

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dunno bout that, i sold my AVCR also cause it didnt control boost for shit....

but yeah, i need a new plastic thingy for the cable also as mine has now broken... and you cant buy themk seperate from nissan, need the whole cable

Serious, I always thought AVCR was up there with eboost.

I've heard of people getting the plastic bit replaced with something stronger, was thinking of ways to make it myself but the hard part is getting it to fit back on the shaft (cable) because its got that bell shape around it so you cant get to it to make a slot or anything.

Simply have the yokes swapped and tail shaft balanced.

Take as little off it as possible. Remove ~12-15mm removing the old yoke and weld.

Mine and Salads was done this way fits fine. :nyaanyaa:

Balance and yoke swap is around $160. Get a couple done at the same time and its cheaper. :w00t:

hey everyone just a bit back to the origin of the post, i have got the navara sender and r33 cog, put them in the gearbox but it was a tight fit, didnt realise that the sender had to be rotated 180 degrees with a slit in the side and now its stuck in there real good, snapped off some of the thread trying to get it out. any ideas on how to remove it?

Spray WD in there and hope it helps the rubber seal to slide a little, then lever it out via the existing slot.

When its in correctly (180) its a fairly tight fit as the seal grabs if you don't use vaso or gearbox oil on it.

Simply have the yokes swapped and tail shaft balanced.

Take as little off it as possible. Remove ~12-15mm removing the old yoke and weld.

Mine and Salads was done this way fits fine. :)

Balance and yoke swap is around $160. Get a couple done at the same time and its cheaper. :D

Nah, I'm getting a one piece made up with bigger replaceable uni's. Don't wanna risk using the stock tail shaft with 350rwkw's. Did anyone measure the distance or did everyone just cut, weld and fit?

Cheers

I've attached a pic of the rb25det gearbox sitting in the car and the rb20 tailshaft up against the dust shield.

As you can see the 20t tailshaft sits slightly inside the box; by the time you remove/cleanup/chop off the old weld and reweld the new yoke on the dust shield lines up perfectly with the rb25 yoke.

Don't take off any more than you have to otherwise the yokes dust shield section will hang outside of the gearbox dust shield.

post-382-1196763571_thumb.jpg

Premo, i get my rb25 yoke on Thursday so i'll be getting my tailshaft mod done soon at the same place as joel and showza (adelaide tailshaft services) might be able to get them done at the same time, even if your doing yours a little different to mine.

Premo, i get my rb25 yoke on Thursday so i'll be getting my tailshaft mod done soon at the same place as joel and showza (adelaide tailshaft services) might be able to get them done at the same time, even if your doing yours a little different to mine.

Thanks for the offer but I'm getting a one piece made up, a bit bigger and stronger. While your getting the tail shaft made up could you measure the distance between the diff flange and the furthest point of the gearbox just so I can make sure the tail shaft I'm getting copied is the right length??

The one I'm getting copied is from an R32 with SR20 and Z32 gearbox so it should be the right length but I wanna double check before I go get it made up, my gearbox hasn't been delivered yet so I cant get the measurement myself. Or If anyone knows the difference in length of an RB20 box and R33 box I could work it out.

Thanks

Edited by =premo=

Pretty sure I mentioned this in another thread.. when we had my engine out to put the new crank/bearings in, I put my stock tailfshaft up next to that out of a 32gtst with an rb26 and 25 gearbox, they were practically the same length minus the saw cut (~1.5-2mm).

Pretty sure I mentioned this in another thread.. when we had my engine out to put the new crank/bearings in, I put my stock tailfshaft up next to that out of a 32gtst with an rb26 and 25 gearbox, they were practically the same length minus the saw cut (~1.5-2mm).

Nice one, thank you.

Thanks Cube's for the pic, makes sense now.

Simon, check your PM's

Edited by =premo=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...