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What do u think? is it a have????

Works just as well as the wifi spray, and the pet bread, and the battery saver tape and the stupid swirly things that go in the intake and the this piece of paper taped to you rear sway bar makes your engine put out twice as much power.

Actually it is a resistor...thats all it is. It will trick your ecu into thinking the air is cooler [or something to those effects]. They have been seen to gain hp, but its much more reliable to simply do by adding boost or retuning. Anything cheap thats makes alot of power [either doesnt at all] or it will end up breaking more expensive parts.

all they are is a resistor. and all they do is lean the car out. and by the looks of it, that is the 1 i have heard of where you actually disconnect the AFM and use that thing instead.

but i wouldn't even use it on a commodore.

but i wouldn't even use it on a commodore.

lol

I DID in fact use it on my V8 BT-1 VR commodore - and did notice and increase in pull (torque).

not BS'ting either

from what ive read it make the ecu think the air is cooler and runs richer. extra 60 miles out of a tank my arse. a few commodore owners on some site have tried these for a cheap power increase and the virdict is they just suck and dont waste your money.

It will modify any standard ECU by telling the ECU that the incoming air in the intake system is cold and so advances the ignition to compensate producing more power. In many cases fuel economy is increased too. Power is increased by up to 15BHP and torque is increased significantly.

I think in theory it would work, and give a little more. This kind of trick has been done many many times before though. In my last car (V8 VP Berlina), you could just relocate the intake air temp sensor to the airbox, and the ECU would think that the air is cooler on the way in.

It's not a smart move though.... i'm sure someone can tell you the possible risks from doing this. More ignition advance, on a hot day, more detonation? Or more fuel on a hot day = more preignition?

It's like soldering a resistor inline with your AFM... tricking the ECU and forcing different values.

How does it work?

It will modify any standard ECU by telling the ECU that the incoming air in the intake system is cold and so advances the ignition to compensate producing more power. In many cases fuel economy is increased too. Power is increased by up to 15BHP and torque is increased significantly.

It will be more responsive and you WILL LIKE IT.

What difference can you expect?

Increased acceleration at low end revs

Higher top end speed

Faster 0-60 and 1/4 mile times

Quicker throttle response

Smooth out flat-spots

Can increase MPG

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Read my thread in my sig on engine failures, then ask yourself if you want to run a Skyline on the stock computer on Aussie 98 RON fuel (Japan is 100 RON) with extra advance. Detonation kills R33 GTSt ringlands. Detonation is caused, among other things, by too much timing advance and fule with too low RON.

Now this may be great on a NA car, but not on a turbo and certainly not on a 33 GTSt.

You can get added power on the stock computer by increasing timing and forcing more fuel in with an adjustable fuel reg, but that is best done on a dyno where AFRs and knock can be managed.

it does the same thing the safc does

bends the afm signal

expect the safc has a programmable ramp

based on revs so you can adjust it at different levels

but in principal, the same thing

bend the afm signal to shift the load up and down

mich like the airflow ramp table on the powerfc

use it to show more or less load on the final load axis

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