Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a problem with the rear passenger door glass hitting the hard rubber surround along the top edge whenever I shut the door with the window up.

This would always cause an air leak sound even at low speeds. So I had to lower then raise the window everytime the door was opened.

Stagea, in their infinite wisdom, put in adjustment screws to help with this problem and the following was my attempt to fix the glass level.

post-25601-1158241205.jpg

Screwdriver shows where to prize off the door handle plastic surround - On the top front edge.

post-25601-1158241333.jpg

Picture of the back of the plastic surround shows the single clip.

post-25601-1158241549.jpg

Underneath is the mounting screw for the panel. 10mm socket works easier than the phillips screwdriver. The rest of the panel comes off by simply pulling around the edges to release the clips. A short, sharp yank with your finger tips is all that is required. See pictue below for where the mounting holes are situated.

post-25601-1158241720.jpg

Be sure to disconnect the electrics - a small screwdriver is needed to release clip, then slide out.

post-25601-1158241862.jpg

All off and admiring the view. Plastic weather protection will need to be removed along the top edge to get at the level adjustors. Pull gently on the plastic without stretching it out of shape and it will stick back into place.

If you look carefully, you'll be able to see the holes where the plastic mounting clips go - so you'll know where to pull on the door trim. Check out the quality of those speakers - the factory must have spent a whole $5 on those babies! And $1 on the foam.

post-25601-1158242015.jpgpost-25601-1158242348.jpg

This picture shows the level adjustors with increments. You can see by the worn ring mark in the paint where it used to be and how far I had to drop the glass. There are two adjustors - one for the front edge and one for the rear. I only needed to adjust the rear to fix my problem.

post-25601-1158242097.jpg

This picture shows the little cloth pads that the glass runs against when moving up and down.

They can also be adjusted to change the angle of the glass on the 'in and out' plane - if that makes any sense. I believe they need to be left with a reasonable amount of play in them as the window changes angle as if feeds up and down. Keep these clean or you will scratch the glass.

The best position to have the glass is where it will just pop under the edge of the hard plastic surround on the body without getting caught on it.

I hope this help you enjoy noiseless motoring and to avoid breaking something unnecessarily.

Happy tinkering,

Warren

Edited by 3intheBack
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134380-rear-door-window/
Share on other sites

Beatuful, GREAT writeup! This might get lost in the Stagea section, so you might want to think about having it moved to the DIY section, either way, I am putting a link to it in the "Mega Stagea Link" thread :)

Again very nice writeup! Thanks!

  • 1 year later...

i did it the other day but i cant remove the damn plugs to the power controls. How did you unplug it? the side morrow adjuster can be unplugeed easy but not the power window one. Lemme know. thanks

Yudy

  • 1 month later...

All the electrical plugs use the same locking system. You need to push in the little clip on the side. Use a screwdriver are similar. It can be a prick of a job as you need two hands to unplug it and two hands to hold the door fab.

  • 1 year later...
i did it the other day but i cant remove the damn plugs to the power controls. How did you unplug it? the side morrow adjuster can be unplugeed easy but not the power window one. Lemme know. thanks

Yudy

Having this same problem, driver's side front on S2... power controls plug (the big one) doesn't matter how far the locking tab is depressed, it's stuck like glue. Yet I know it's not glued 'cause I plugged it in myself not 4 months ago.

  • 3 years later...

We had been having trouble with window alignment of the left rear door window glass in our S2 for a while.

Recently i had the door to a point where i could make some minor adjustments and then i found the alingment problem for our car.

I found that there is a small white plastic bush that slides in the glass runner, which the regulator arms are mounted to via a little metal balljoint. I found that plastic bush was split in half and allowing the glass to lay back.

I have been into Nissan and i was told that i can't even buy a new complete regulator.

Has anybody found this same problem and be willing to share a solution.

Cheers, Jason.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...