Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just after some advice.

Im chasing around 250rwkw in my r32 eventually, I already have gtr injectors, 500hp fuel pump and afew other supporting mod's on my rb20, altho still stock turbo.

My question is, should I ditch the rb20 and drop an rb25det in, or go for a rebuild and stroke the rb20 to the 2.4?

I figure it will be more expensive going the Rb25 route, but Id rather go that if it will handle the power better?

Im not sure how far I can push the 2.4 and also I hate the lagginess of the rb20.

I'd like abit more info on the 2.4?

Cheers.

if you want what is the cheaper of the 2 go the rb25 .Building an rb2.4 is expensive and the rb25 will get you the power you want easy with out the lag

cheers Peter

From my personal experience turning an RB20 into a Rb24 is not worth it...

Parts are expensive and you may as well just go to a Rb26 for the same money...

For a simple 250rwkw the Rb25 is the perfect selection. Most importantlly their cheap and the parts are cheap...

(When i say cheap, their cheap in comparison to other engines.)

Its easy to get an RB25det reg'd in an R32.

Here in Adelaide they need to run the stock ecu, R33 GTST front brakes and thats it.

Unsure what the price of an R33 motor and ecu is worth these days but it 'may' work out better simply grabbing yourself an R32 RB25DE and dropping a set of aftermarket cast or forged (which ever your budget permits) pistons in it to drop the compression with a cheap refresh. For near the same cost (maybe +1k :ninja:) of an R33 motor and ecu you end up with a fresh 2.5ltr. ;)

The bonus of the R32 RB25DE motor is they are identical (sensor, plugs, injectors, bolt ups etc) to that of the RB20DET, so simply rip the rb20det out, drop the rb25 in, start it on the rb20 ecu and drive it to the tuners to ensure afr's are good, which they will be but MAY hit an early fuel cut as the ecu won't expect so much airflow at a lesser rpm.

what about an rb30 btm end underneath the 20 head?

my tuner showed me one they put in a vl with a huge turbo

and ran 10z at its first meet.

not sure what needs to go inside the engine though,can anyone help on

whats needed inside the engine?

as id like to go this route to maintain the stock look.

what about an rb30 btm end underneath the 20 head?

my tuner showed me one they put in a vl with a huge turbo

and ran 10z at its first meet.

not sure what needs to go inside the engine though,can anyone help on

whats needed inside the engine?

as id like to go this route to maintain the stock look.

wow they would have some good response...prob not as good potential as a 25 head....but the idea is there.

I like the idea of a rb24 just cause it is different, i mean it is more but then you could get 250rwkw without changing the internals on the 20, just mean some lag issues....but then again do you drift on track or anything? just dump the clutch again it if is slow :) The rb20 is still one of the strongest engines, dont want lag then pump fuel and a smaller turbo and or a different cam. Also you could commit suicide and put an sr20 wth a gt28rs in if you want balls.

Haha thanks for the response's guys, still undecided, at the moment my main game is drag, but I'd like to dabble in abit of everything. The idea of the R32 RB25 sound's like a good idea, I never thought of that, tho no VVT?

I thought the 2.4 might do alright with lag compared to 2.0l, figured it wouln't be too much different from a 2.5? but judging by the responses it sounds like it would be just as bad as a 20.

Haha thanks for the response's guys, still undecided, at the moment my main game is drag, but I'd like to dabble in abit of everything. The idea of the R32 RB25 sound's like a good idea, I never thought of that, tho no VVT?

I thought the 2.4 might do alright with lag compared to 2.0l, figured it wouln't be too much different from a 2.5? but judging by the responses it sounds like it would be just as bad as a 20.

Yep no VVT. The head etc literally looks exactly the same as an RB20DET. The only difference is the side of the combustion chamber, valves and larger inlet ports.

With regards to the rb20 head on an rb30 in a VL running a 10. Thats no big deal.. An rb30et (SOHC) touch over 300rwkw, slicks, stally and an auto pulls in to the 10's with SOHC. :)

From my personal experience turning an RB20 into a Rb24 is not worth it...

Parts are expensive and you may as well just go to a Rb26 for the same money...

For a simple 250rwkw the Rb25 is the perfect selection. Most importantlly their cheap and the parts are cheap...

(When i say cheap, their cheap in comparison to other engines.)

i'm keen to hear about your RB24 too.

I think the 24 would be a good option, and certainly more torquey than the 20 possibly about the same as a 25 even. and it will look stock. still have the same engine number, still run on the same ecu etc etc. it definately has some advantages. but i have to agree that the 25 will probably be cheaper.

Can someone explain why RB20s scream and sound great, where as RB25s are a slightly flatter/deeper exhaust note? There is enough of a reason to keep the RB20 there :)

I do miss the scream and top end power feel where it doesn't simply nose over but just keep screaming. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...