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N1 Oil Pump Killed My Engine .....

campbell

By campbell,
in General Automotive Discussion

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Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

no warranty on import spare parts as per Nissans national headquarters fax to me after I asked about the pump, as the car wasnt service or the part wasnt installed buy qualified nissan mechs there is no warranty on nearly all spare parts regardless of whether its a mechanical part or not!!

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SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
no warranty on import spare parts as per Nissans national headquarters fax to me after I asked about the pump, as the car wasnt service or the part wasnt installed buy qualified nissan mechs there is no warranty on nearly all spare parts regardless of whether its a mechanical part or not!!

That's actually not correct. Nissan can't bypass it's 'fit for purpose' obligations by such statements, imported parts or not. Statutory warranty obligations still apply. However, you would have to prove that the part was faulty from manufacture.....and that's the difficult part.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
Can anyone here do metalurgy tests to test if the gear drive material is the same as standard pumps as I believe they are a harder steel but a more brittle one thus prone to cracking....

I could, but I can't become 'involved' in any official way because of who I work for (my time is currently charged at around $1500/day and this is about a weeks work to a proper job, report, etc). I don't mind having an informal look and give you a guide as to what's going on + put you on to some people in Sydney that will be able to pursue it further if you want....at cost, of course).

Unless a proper, scientific investigation is done, everything else is just pure speculation AFAIC. It's highly unlikely the materials are at fault, if properly designed and selected in the first place. Faulty materials probably account for <5% of all mechanical failures.

infected flow Rising Star

infected flow

Posted
Posted (edited)
Wheres your R&D injected?

we are all still waiting for it :whistling:

many many examples versus just one... i know which one i'd trust

no need to maybe u should read everyone else's post .... how about u prove me wrong..ohh hand on a sec u cant as usual... u just go on what other people have said or what u have been told....

.....im listening

and about the cranks many engine builders actually shave the end of the crank where the oil pump fits to turn it over beta/ beta hold on the oil pump hope i explained that.

and your a tosser if u think the n1 oil pump is better than the jun/tomei one's.

but i know u would go for the n1 because your a tight ass.

cheers.

Edited by infected flow
infected flow Rising Star

infected flow

Posted
Posted
I could, but I can't become 'involved' in any official way because of who I work for (my time is currently charged at around $1500/day and this is about a weeks work to a proper job, report, etc). I don't mind having an informal look and give you a guide as to what's going on + put you on to some people in Sydney that will be able to pursue it further if you want....at cost, of course).

Unless a proper, scientific investigation is done, everything else is just pure speculation AFAIC. It's highly unlikely the materials are at fault, if properly designed and selected in the first place. Faulty materials probably account for <5% of all mechanical failures.

hey steve actually the gears failed on both occasions not the bearings or anything else but when u look at both pumps they are very similiar =standard = n1 oil pump im not actually sure if its the design or the metal that the pumps are made of.

cheers hope this helps

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

all the N1 pump failures I know of were gear failures too. like I said before, a lot of it comes down to the use of the car, but regardless of that they definately seem more prone to fail that tomei/jun/trust pumps. It's enough of a concern for me to not use one on a decent $$ build which is pretty much any RB26 build these days!

dontfeelcold Experienced

dontfeelcold

Posted
Posted

Why not use an external oil pump? Not a dry sump setup, just a pump thats sucks the oil up then feeds it into the engine. Maybe make use of the standard pressure relief valve and plumb the external pump into the standard positions. I would be surpised if there wasn't something available that could be used.

Or is there more to it than that?

dontfeelcold Experienced

dontfeelcold

Posted
Posted

External Oil Pump

Moroso's External Oil Pump System has shown significant horsepower increases when used in conjunction with our External Wet Sump Oil Pans. Mounting an oil pump outside the engine (similar to a dry sump setup), allows the use of a full-length windage tray for less windage and more power! An External Oil Pump also eliminates torsional stress on the camshaft, as well as spark scatter and resultant horsepower loss caused by an internal pump.

Interesting

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

a couple of people do use external pumps on RB26 with a wet sump. but it's not cheap. not as expensive as dry sump (not far off) but more expensive than a JUN/Trust/Tomei pump so they are kind of middle ground. most people either save their dough and use the JUN/Tomei/Trust option (along with baffles, enlarged sump, external oil return, head restrictor) or go the whole hog to Dry sump. Like I said though there are a couple RB26s in Aus with external oil pump, wet sump set-ups.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Time some of you guys that have lunched engines and pumps to post in my thread in my sig, but I'm going to be linking directly to this thread out of there anyway and adding to the review.

My first thought on seeing the first post was hard cut rev limiter launches and then possibly the pump drive configuration, but on a $10K engine that would be hard to believe. Can the oil drive config be confirmed as short or long?

As with anything the failure can be diagnosed fairly easily if you know what to look for, so time for pictures as well so some of us can comment on design flaw/manufature flaw/destruction due to usage.

There has also been a thread where a Kiwi did straight up testing of the N1 vs stock and the N1 has larger flow capacity due to larger gear spaces so could laed to fatigue failure (from thinner material in some areas), harder material in the pump gears as well as the higher pressure relief valve.

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