Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I Just got my NEO dyno'd,

I got 179rwkw with a catback and apexi filter.

The heatsoak was pretty bad, the next run after that I only got 164.

From the mods you have it's possible.

Cheers

Josh

Yea exactly and mine was staying on 13 the whole time. The other guy was saying that if it was the fuel pump the AFR would keep rising... I don't see how tho

i think you are right there. i'd say its probably the fuel pressure regulator.

mayb i should just replace the FPR 1st and see if it fixes it

Should i be getting any particular brand or just get a stock1?

nismo ones are cheap and well tested .. and just fit inplace of the stock one easily

Depends on your long term goals.

If you don't plan to throw a highflow on it just grab another cheap (if they are cheap that is) stock item from a wreckers and try.

Otherwise.. grab a nismo item. They work well and are well priced. Grab one from nengun/perfectrun and the like.

You can't just throw a FPR onto a stock ECU. It'll mess up the fueling on anything but full throttle.

Also AFRs at 13 wouldn't be responsible for the high power. The power difference say between 12 and 13 might only be 2-5% max. 196rwkw at 8.5psi.. sounds like an RB30 haha.

what i find odd is that the AFRs are almost dead flat all the way through, even though it is lean

maybe its not actually a stock ECU? have you checked what it looks like for some kind of sticker? or opened it even?

what i find odd is that the AFRs are almost dead flat all the way through, even though it is lean

maybe its not actually a stock ECU? have you checked what it looks like for some kind of sticker? or opened it even?

Nah havent checked it, i jus assumed it was stock i guess. I'll do that this weekend and let u guys know. ECU is located under passenger side kick panel right?

yeah but if anything that would make the figures more realistic..

its when IT is way higher than AT that you see higher figures, so with the values around the same the computer won't apply much (any?) correction...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...