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Hello,

Im a bit of a learner when it comes to turbos.

Now i've had my r32 gts-t for about 10months, the previous owner in japan has fitted a z32 AFM, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the injectors im fairly sure are GT-R ones as there is a resistor pack, and they only read about 3 ohams. The ecu looks stock, but, things like the speed limitor have been removed, so i assume its been played with also. The car also has a FMIC

Now, Im not quite sure how high i should turn the boost up, at the moment im running it fairly stock, as im frightened of turbo damage if i turn it up to much. Today i removed the dump pipe to have a look at the wheel, now, i don't have a clue what i was looking at so i took a picture in the hope that someone on here would be able to tell me if its ceramic or steel. The acual wheel is not all that big so i'm assuming its pretty much the stock unit.....

Sorry about the poor image quality.

Thanks

post-25715-1159704302.jpg

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whiter31gxe,

Have you had it on the dyno for a power run to see if its pinging and what the afr's are like?

Do hit the dyno before winding up boost or possibly wind the boost up on the dyno. At least you can see what its doing. Especially as the ecu has clearly been fiddled with.

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Thanks for the replys.

I have not had it on a dyno yet. I forgot the mention that i do have a SAFC II hocked up to the system, still have not had it tuned yet, been holding out till I work out what i was going to do turbo wise, but, it does not register any knocking.

Also does anyone have a recommendation for a dyno to use on the mid north coast?

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which also has a ceramic wheel?

yes, but you can run around 14psi comfortably on the RB20 with 25 turbo.

ITs been well covered the gains from putting an RB25 turbo on

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

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Hello,

Im a bit of a learner when it comes to turbos.

Now i've had my r32 gts-t for about 10months, the previous owner in japan has fitted a z32 AFM, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the injectors im fairly sure are GT-R ones as there is a resistor pack, and they only read about 3 ohams. The ecu looks stock, but, things like the speed limitor have been removed, so i assume its been played with also. The car also has a FMIC

Now, Im not quite sure how high i should turn the boost up, at the moment im running it fairly stock, as im frightened of turbo damage if i turn it up to much. Today i removed the dump pipe to have a look at the wheel, now, i don't have a clue what i was looking at so i took a picture in the hope that someone on here would be able to tell me if its ceramic or steel. The acual wheel is not all that big so i'm assuming its pretty much the stock unit.....

Sorry about the poor image quality.

Thanks

dude,

that doesn't look like the standard rb20 turbo.

if you look closely it actually looks like the 9-blade turbine which is found in the HKS 2530.

you might want to check the id-plate on the centre core.

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As people have said:

1) Get on a dyno to check the AFRs. That exhaust wheel looks pretty good to my eyes (in terms of colour) but if you fiddle the boost that can change so don't change the boost unless you're on the dyno.

2) RB25 turbo is a good upgrade on an RB20, I went with the S2 turbo on my last car and the power delivery was fine. But check the turbo you've got on there as it sounds like you could have an aftermarket one already :D

3) RB25 turbos - S1 has a steel compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. S2 has a nylon compressor wheel and a ceramic turbine wheel. The R34 turbos have a plastic (!!!) compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. I picked an R33 S2 turbo as nylon is lighter than steel so should spool a bit better on an RB20.

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dude,

that doesn't look like the standard rb20 turbo.

if you look closely it actually looks like the 9-blade turbine which is found in the HKS 2530.

you might want to check the id-plate on the centre core.

The RB20 turbo that came off mine has 9 blades. Looks identical to mine.

---------

The R33 S2 and R34 Compressor wheels are made of the same plastic type material. Its not plastic just looks like black plastic. :D

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As people have said:

1) Get on a dyno to check the AFRs. That exhaust wheel looks pretty good to my eyes (in terms of colour) but if you fiddle the boost that can change so don't change the boost unless you're on the dyno.

2) RB25 turbo is a good upgrade on an RB20, I went with the S2 turbo on my last car and the power delivery was fine. But check the turbo you've got on there as it sounds like you could have an aftermarket one already :(

3) RB25 turbos - S1 has a steel compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. S2 has a nylon compressor wheel and a ceramic turbine wheel. The R34 turbos have a plastic (!!!) compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel. I picked an R33 S2 turbo as nylon is lighter than steel so should spool a bit better on an RB20.

why so "!!!" over plastic compressor wheels? - nylon is a polymer also - kevlar is a polymer and its stronger than steel and used as bullet proofing - "plastics" dont all necessarily have the same properties of a shopping bag.

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i already knew about the "r33 turbo on an rb20 running 14psi is fine" thing, but for my knowledge, why is an r33 turbo able to run 14psi on an RB20 but only really good for a daily 10psi on an rb25?

is it the extra displacement has a lot more heat, which causes the wheel failure?

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Airflow... The RB25 head flows air in and out of the pots easier.

14psi on an rb20 makes ~190rwkw, ~11psi on an rb25 makes ~190rwkw. They will both be spinning at a similiar RPM and pushing similiar air. Once you start pushing a turbo past its airflow capability it begins to push hotter and hotter air that is more prone to detonation, higher egt's (the real killer), greater turbine back pressure etc.

No one apart from garrett and the likes really knows but thats basically it.

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