Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mods/specs are:

rb20det

5spd

drift clutch

kkr430

jic coilo's

castor rods

steering spacers

rear camber arms

pinapples (the steel ones)

2way (unknown type, i suspect its nismo but ive never pulled it apart)

uras kit

more stuff i cbf writing

post-20231-1160562665.jpg

post-20231-1160563000.jpg

post-20231-1160563373.jpg

post-20231-1160563690.jpg

Edited by toffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137062-toffs-track-slurry/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 months later...
nice non da less :P

p:s this was inarks a31 before.... lol guessing u bough tit off him

cheers, yep it was niks :) , looks a lil different now eh?

ok three months on i dont no how da fk i new dat was inark's(nik's) ceffy :huh::O ... :P

anyway yea lukin different but still as nice :P:)

Edited by Dan_J

Lol all questions answered, it was a totally different car from the time nik owned it to the time i took it over to simon ;) , in memory all it had was the cat back hanging off it and the coilovers

ive got a small update, took the ceff on the track on the weekend, it seems to slide ok, needs some setup and tlc though :wave: . i burst a brake line which made things quite interesting :laugh:

post-20231-1166436011.jpg

now what you mean bout those brake lines had it happen to me at turn 1 mallala!!!... good time to invest in a 4spot 4stud upgrade :) with braided lines.

YES definately time for a brake upgrade, im gunna go 5 stud though.... and some braided lines :):)

  • 1 month later...

had a drift prac at symmons today...exit 3rd gear :( , i knew it was gunna go though, when i serviced it when i first got it the oil was metallic enough to paint a car :P . its getting a retune in a week and a half dr drift if i can find another gearbox in time :)

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You beat me to it, I was going to say this -  And this -  Sounds like things are coming along pretty well and your learning heaps along the way. 
    • It's the same ABS unit from the old shell.  It was all just lifted and shifted.  I am looking at the BMW MK60 ABS unit as a budget upgrade, as I'm not keen on handing over 15k for a Bosch unit.  
    • Bear in mind RBs tend to be pretty terrible for fuel economy and it heavily depends on driving style. In my experience with a heavy-ass turbo Stagea the 10l/100km is really just ideal conditions highway driving. Start-stop in the city is killer and it ends up being 16-19l/100km easily. I keep track of it every time I get fuel and it is never pretty. There are a few topics in the forums where people share their fuel economy if you want to get some ideas of what it can be like. I don't think it is worth that much to compare though because it depends so much on the driving.
    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
×
×
  • Create New...