Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i reckon the G35 pictured....should have the bumper with a slightly higher angle so it mates better with the bonnet line...

from the side it looks as if there is a dip where they meet.. i can also see there is like a mini vent/grill/hole there for getting to the bonnet latch.. that should have been shaped to meet the bonnet better..

thats all...

not like i could do it

but every time u look at that car in the driveway/garage u would be thinking its not quite an Aston and not quite a skyline ;-)

Why would anybody bother???

There is only one Aston Martin worth owning in my books and that's a 1969/72 DBSV8.

Anything that can go from 0 to 100mph and back to 0 in about the same time as we can walk across the road will do me (13.8 secs)

A good one can be bought today for under $50,000.00 so compared to anything Nissan it represents good value.

Anyway, it is one of the last true Aston Martins, as Ford bought a controlling interest in about 1975. Just look at the current series, all are 5.0L not the 5.3L Quad Cam of these classics.

Cheers, D

Why would anybody bother???

There is only one Aston Martin worth owning in my books and that's a 1969/72 DBSV8.

Anything that can go from 0 to 100mph and back to 0 in about the same time as we can walk across the road will do me (13.8 secs)

A good one can be bought today for under $50,000.00 so compared to anything Nissan it represents good value.

Anyway, it is one of the last true Aston Martins, as Ford bought a controlling interest in about 1975. Just look at the current series, all are 5.0L not the 5.3L Quad Cam of these classics.

Cheers, D

Nice car, but there are other nice Aston's... V8 Vantage Le Mans? 600hp from twin supercharged V8, and it looks pretty mean...

post-18125-1161325804.jpg

And what about the DB5? Who wouldn't want to drive the difinitive Bond-mobile?

post-18125-1161325836.jpg

Edited by Big Rizza

Almost as bad as when people use to put mercedes front grills on geminis.

Or the whole evoIII body kit phase of the late 90s. No your excel is not an EVO!

The only decent one of these kits ive ever seen that makes a car something its not is an mx5 converted to hardtop and made to look like the very first rotor - 110s cosmo (had a big 10A in it).

original looked like this:

250px-Mazda_cosmo_sport.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...