Dual High Beam

[Airzone]

All right then... 100W bulbs will be more likely to melt lenses than dual 55W's but anyway... You'll probably want 10 amp fuses instead of 5 though (100W / 12V = 8.3A)... I found that 5 amp is just on the limit for the stock bulbs, so I'm running 7.5's now.

[Jimbo2000]

its already in the DIY section you dolts :slap:

[fooey]

Bump... can some one please repost the pics/diagrams?

Thanks

[sigsputnik]

same - i can't see the pics!

[igor]

See, i ve been pondering lately that there might be an easier solution to this.

There are likely to be two relays for the high and low beams (or 4 - one for each light). When the high beam is turned on a low power signal from the switch goes into high beam relay and turns it on. At the same time this signal goes into perhaps another relay which grounds through an appropriate resistor the low beam, ie turns it off.

So there might be a solution that will disconnect the low beam relay from the high beam signal.

On the other hand they could have put a funky switch on the steering column that has two outputs and does the selection mechanically. This IMHO is unlikely since Nissan is more likely to have a standard switch for all cars.

I m going to poke around with the multimeter tonight and see if i can find it.

[igor]

Well it was a good ponder... I cant find it so far. Doesnt look like there are ANY relays controling the lights.... Very weird.

[igor]

Alrite, i didnt find any relays. Looks like the power comes straight out of the switch. I ll be going with the GTS 33's design.

I can make a suggestion though. You dont need to run two wires to feed the relays. Since it's a high impedance device you can run one wire to the LH low beam and two to the RH low and high. Then hook up the two relays in parallel to the RH high beam, leaving the rest as you suggested.

[igor]

Finished......

:jump:

What i did was actually re-wiring the whole thing - high and low beams.

Staff i used:

2 core Figure 8 speaker cable - approximately 14 gauge - 6 metres

2 core figure 8 cable - approximately 16 gauge - 2 metres

2 30A 4 contact relays

2 Relay holders.

2 15A fuses

2 Fuse holders

3 diodes (just asked the guy at jaycar for something that can handle 1 watt)

A bunch of terminals and o-terminals (make sure there are two that can go onto M8 bolt, another two for M6 bolt).

Vague instructions - schematics to come later when its not 1:30 in the morning.

1. Run the thick cable (2core) to the LH light.

3. Cut the low beam and high beam wires - green and pink respectively. That is the wires that come out of the light globe, not the three pin connector that comes in with all the stripy wires.

2. Connect the your wires to the light wires

3. Insulate the remainder of the wire that you cut (green and pink)

4. Do the same for the RH lights. BUT DO NOT INSULATE the remainder of the cut-off wire

5 Run these wires to the relay box.

5. Run the thinner wire out of the relay box and connect those to the other side of the pink and green wires that you cut off. This is is your signal wire.

Now you have all the wires you need in the relay box.

6. Some literature on the world wyld web suggest that you run a diode across the 85 and 86 pins on the relay. Sometimes these relays are known to turn on momentarily after you turn them off. The polarity is very important here. The side of the diode with the stripe should be on the positive side. What i did is I cut off about 5 mm on each side of the diode, folder both legs in half and shoved those in the relay holder across 85 and 86.

For more info on this read

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

7. Now you end up with six wires in the relay box and four wires in the fuse holder. Short the two high beam power wires and attach those to either 87 or 30. 87 is the convention i believe. Connect the 30 to hard positive through the fuse holder with 15A fuse.

8. Connect your ground (85 or 86 )on the holder to the chassis. The ground is determined by the orientation of the diode. Connect the other wire on the relay holder to the low beam signal wire. In this joint put another diode - stripe to the joint. This doide will feed the low beam relay when high beam is on and will not let the high beam relay turn on when the low beam is on.

9. At this stage i would make sure all the wires are insulated, you can leave the high beam wires sticking out, just make sure you dont accidentally ground them. Turn the battery back on and make sure nothing is smoking. If you have a multimeter go over all the contacts to make sure they are right. And of course your low beams should be working now.

10. Repeat the same procedure to the other relay. On the positive coil wire (85 or 86) I stripped a couple of mm and connected the signal wire to that. Then i conencted the end of it to the diode on the low beam signal wire.

11. Another edit. You will need to change the headlights fuses - in the relay box under the bonnet. I put 1A fuses in both LH and RH. 1A is enough to power the two relays. The other 1A fuse will protest the unused wire in the LH side.

Should work now.

Tips: you need to unscrew the washer tank and the radiator excess tank - 5 bolts. You also need to unscrew the relay holder - 2 bolts. Youd dont need to disconnect the water pipes from the washer tank, should have enough room to move.

Tools I used:

Wire stripper/cutter - cant leave without that thing

Flathead screwdriver - to undo the bottom on the relay box.

Soldering iron

Solder

Rust Converter - thats what i use for flusing the wires - beautiful stuff

Crimper for the conencters

10mm socket rachet

12mm socket rachet for the hard positive nut

Multimeter

You can probably do without a multimeter and the rust converter, not worth getting those just for this. Wire stripper - get it and dont even think about it. It ll drive you up the wall trying to work with the headlight wires without it. 30 bucks from Dick Smith. You can do without the crimper too, as long as you solder properly.

Alright, bed time, need to get my 4 hours of sleep.

[EDIT] I slept in for an hour, lucky i always leave early, still got to work on time

Acknowledgements and References:

GTS 33 - For initial design

http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/re...elay_basics.htm - Relay stuff

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/re...ays/relays.html - The other half of my design

[Sumo]

For the bloke with 100w globes, I would not recommend running them in conjuction with your low beam. It will end up in a sad state.

100watt globes are not twice as bright as a 50watt globe - But they will produce a truck load more heat. Have you ever wonderd why manufacturers never use 100watters in their cars? Disadvantages outweigh benefits.

Cheers

Sumo

[Maxx]

used to have a S13 with twin square light and i done this, in a different way.

I do a bit mod to the plug and put a H4 in for low beam.

so once i put on the high beam, i have 4 HB! (H4 include high & low beam)

instead of what u got in this thread's mod : 2 x high 2 x low

[shaund]

In my experiance, high beam and low beams are controlled by 2 relays.

One for high, One for low.

It would be quite simple (if one could locate the two relays) to add in a diode

rated for ~1A so that power for the high beam relay will flow to the low beam

relay, but not in the reverse direction.

Ie, you would put in a diode from the +ve side of the coil on the highbeam relay

to the +ve side of the coil on the lowbeam relay, oriented so that it would

allow current to flow from the high beam relay to the low beam relay, but (obviously)

not the other way around. You may also need to increase the amperage of the

fuse for the high beam relay, perhaps anywhere up to double the rating if it

has a seperate fuse. Use your best judgement and do some testing.

It is possible though (as Igor states) that there are no relays to control the lights

and that its all run through the switch in the cabin. I suspect that if this truly is

the case, it may be model specific, in which case the information I have provided

above may be more useful to people with other cars.

Cheers,

-Shaun

[someonestolecc]

Has anyone figured out a way to achieve the same thing WITHOUT switching the power signal?

I have installed a HID kit into my flatmates skyline and I would prefer the low beam signal stay on, rather than be switched by a relay.

Does having it switch on/off when you're flashing your high beams (for example) has any negative effect? I mean, essentially you're taking the power away then re-applying it (although very quickly).

Anyone found what controls the lights?

[igor]

You can't. The power for the lights is switched at the steering wheel switch. I too thought it was dodgy before I wired mine up, but it's been going strong since then.

[Ronin 09]

Hey Igor got any schematics?

cheers

[SS8_Gohan]

get that shovel out Marcus

EDIT: by the way, i still haven't put those Xenon's in, still wanna check the size of em?

[Ronin 09]

get that shovel out Marcus

EDIT: by the way, i still haven't put those Xenon's in, still wanna check the size of em?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yeah... either get yelled at for not searching, or when searched get told off for digging up an oldie! can't win...

been talking with BATMBL, need to get my headlights sorted first. but would like to check out the car anyway!

[rico]

does anyone have the picture schematics anymore to this handy thread?

[1400r]

Yippee old thread wake up

ok I found a Japanese guys blog(I think)

awhile ago showing how to do this to a R32 and now I cant find it

it showed him removing the switch gear from the steering collum and snipping off one of the diodes

(I think)

any one heard about this seen it able to find it?

Edited October 24, 2007 by 1400r

[bambinator]

There is another way to do this, which may prove better for those with HID lights and don't want them to turn off. It involves a simple modification to the light switch. I don't know if this works on R32s, as I have an R33.

Before mod:

Low beam

Hi beam

Remove your lights/indicator stalk from the column, and looking at the back, you should see something like this:

There are two copper tracks that you need to bridge with solder - they are marked with red circles on the following images:

Once done, it will look something like this (excuse my poor soldering technique)

Then reinstall into the car. You should now have dual-headlight hi-beam goodness.

[1400r]

Thanks I actually ending up buying some instruction off Yahoo for 500 yen

showing how to do it on a 32

similar sorta thing though