Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't know if any of you lads are interested but we are getting team shirts made up for our R32 GTR Drag Car, Prices will very depending on how many we order but they will be approx $40. Just PM if you do want one and the size you would like.

Cheers Benny

Will look something like that:

524211_10151087883371678_761052666_n.jpg

Is anyone interested in my HKS GT2835KAI turbo?

Will probably look at selling it soon and just wanted to see if anyone local wants it

I made 255rwkw with it @ 18psi

just EOI at the moment. Probably just the turbo itself as well as the oil lines

Is anyone interested in my HKS GT2835KAI turbo?

Will probably look at selling it soon and just wanted to see if anyone local wants it

I made 255rwkw with it @ 18psi

just EOI at the moment. Probably just the turbo itself as well as the oil lines

Could be interested bro

Is anyone interested in my HKS GT2835KAI turbo?

Will probably look at selling it soon and just wanted to see if anyone local wants it

I made 255rwkw with it @ 18psi

just EOI at the moment. Probably just the turbo itself as well as the oil lines

yeah i might be interested too callan ;)

0448 233 105

He's from Mackay.. Knows this shit backwards. He's a guy like you and me, and the rest of the crowd.

Very good with suspension too due to the whole drifting scene.

Thanks again Jono i gave him a call, he's going to check it out on Friday for me

damn ben you guys don't stuff around. it'll look good once ya get it pieced together.

cal- go the 3076r, it will change your life :P

nic- just finish the sil80, if ya go a 3076 on the 34 don't go the 6 bolt housing, it'll make decent midrange power but for what a dump pipe costs go the .82iw

damn ben you guys don't stuff around. it'll look good once ya get it pieced together.

cal- go the 3076r, it will change your life :P

nic- just finish the sil80, if ya go a 3076 on the 34 don't go the 6 bolt housing, it'll make decent midrange power but for what a dump pipe costs go the .82iw

I'm pretty set on going Hypergear right now. After the cost and annoyance this HKS turbo has caused my I'm reluctant to go for another one (pretty sure Ben was talking about his HKS turbo he is selling)

anyway, the main benefit of the Hypergear turbo is that I can just change my mind whenever if I want to go ext gate or even if I want to get updated parts/housings/wheels.

It's just a bit of 'playing it safe' I guess you could say on my behalf, Stao is local and easy to contact/deal with.

Having said that, its not like they are comprimising to provide any of this, I've seen plenty of good results

Cal, the hypergear won't do much better than the 2835. There is also nothing wrong with the GT3037 HKS. They have a better rear housing and IW than the garret version. They also make more power because they have a larger 76mm compressor.

Cal, the hypergear won't do much better than the 2835. There is also nothing wrong with the GT3037 HKS. They have a better rear housing and IW than the garret version. They also make more power because they have a larger 76mm compressor.

??

The turbo I'm going for will be 300rwkw @ 20psi on pump fuel, full boost 3700ish rpm (getting 6boost manifold)

The HKS 2835KAI is only making 255rwkw @ 18psi with full boost around 3400rpm

I've spoken to others and this is all they are making

The Pro S that I originally wanted, sure. Would be more then happy with it

But the KAI has proven to be nothing compared to the Pro S.

There must be something up.

I made 300rwkw with a garrett GT3076 and 0.63 rear housing at 18psi - 20psi. Full boost in third at 3200rpm. That was with the little IW too. You can get a custom garrett IW that is bigger and handles high boost better.

The 0.82 rear housing shits 300rwkw in at 18psi. About 500rpm lagier though.

Its a direct replacement to your current turbo too. Well almost, I think the HKS rear dump pattern is a little different but that is easily fixed.

And why are you wasting money on a 6 boost manifold? All of my results were with a standard manifold. If you want to make the standard flow better (more like a HKS cast one) then hit it with a die grinder and clear out all of the lumps. I did that with the standard manifold I used for my RB25\30 build, and bam, 320rwkw with 20psi from the same Garrett GT3076, 0.82 rear housing, IW. Had Tomei 256\256 poncams though. Full boost in 3rd at 3000rpm, and 820nm of torque at 3000rpm.

Its a weapon. Still going good too.

My advice?

Get a GT3076 or GT3037, 0.82 rear housing.

Port your standard manifold, and get it faced

Port match your Rear housing entrance to your exhaust manifold output

Get some Poncams, 256/256 or 262. Anything bigger is a waste for the RPM range you are using.

Get someone to look at your tune

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...