Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$17/hr and on site.... LMFAO daylight robbery, enjoy workin for peanuts haha

it is good to get a trade but u gotta be willing to take a pay cut...

thiess is a "bigger mining company" so im sure they can pay a little more then 17 bucks n hour

Wher from mate? My boss is the manager off Opposite Lock accessories and i sell used cars here. I should be able to help you out.

Quote was from ARB for the lockers coz that the brand i want.. Snorkel was TJM. Dunno bout the lockers fair bit of coin when iam already spendin a bit on the GTR

Quote was from ARB for the lockers coz that the brand i want.. Snorkel was TJM. Dunno bout the lockers fair bit of coin when iam already spendin a bit on the GTR

Ah true, what sort of ute is it for? I can try get you some prices from here if you want

I'm on $40ph now, in town, airconned office, I'm the boss, and I can come and go when I please, so its probably not worth it. I'll just have another look next year and see if I still want a change in career.

Thanks for all the advice though, appreciate it

Edited by The Mafia

i remember when i was on $60/hr :'( pitty i was working with a bunch of F.U.C.K..W.I.T.S

still got to put a fair bit of that coin away.... seriously though mature age appt. i thought was 4th yr wage and well unless ur doin hairdressing im pretty sure 17/hr aint right

worth a look into it

Will do, definitely not good form from someone like Thiess.

Its not like I am some young di.ckhead with no clue, absolutely no life experience, getting drunk every night of the week.

I'm an old di.ckhead.

Off topic from money-

I was speaking to a guy in the states on the topic of gearbox and diff oils and he seemed to think Redline oils were bad and to stay away from them and that Amsoil oils are much much better.

thoughts? Everyone i've ever spoken to that runs Redline oils reps it well so i find this hard to believe.

I'm having a tuff choice on a braking package for my 180sx. I can't run my existing AP Racing Brake package i had on my GTR as it is huge and bit too heavy and won't fit behind my wheels. I have decided to sell them to Jordan for his GTR which will look pretty deadly.

At the moment i will be running R33 GTR 2 piston Brembo's on the rear which is cool as the car will probably weigh anything from 1000-1150kg. So big brakes are over kill.

just get 33gtr fronts with project mu rotors and some decent pads, a mate has that setup on his 180 and it is great for circuit. make sure you use a bm50.

mafia- i see that as great money, when i did my first apprenticeship i was on $5.50/hr. being mature age you should also be able to do it in 2.5yrs.

Off topic from money-

I was speaking to a guy in the states on the topic of gearbox and diff oils and he seemed to think Redline oils were bad and to stay away from them and that Amsoil oils are much much better.

thoughts? Everyone i've ever spoken to that runs Redline oils reps it well so i find this hard to believe.

I Run Redline Oil in the R32 Drag Car gearbox as per recommended by everyone one I have ever talked to. Seems to be pretty good stuff a lil expensive but hey its a $11k gearbox so its gotta have the best.

just get 33gtr fronts with project mu rotors and some decent pads, a mate has that setup on his 180 and it is great for circuit. make sure you use a bm50.

Yeah my old man spoke to John from UAS and he said most time attack Silvia's just run stock brembo system but the car has to be light. I am running a Tilton pedal box with dual brake reservoirs so will have plenty of grunt.

I Run Redline Oil in the R32 Drag Car gearbox as per recommended by everyone one I have ever talked to. Seems to be pretty good stuff a lil expensive but hey its a $11k gearbox so its gotta have the best.

Thanks for that benny, i guess they are both just as good as eachother.

Looks like I am going to be running Brembo Brakes off a Nascar just waiting for old mate in the USA to get back to about shipping. They are the ducks nuts One piece monoblock calipers with titanium pistons, Big Piston 4 pot fronts 330mm rotors front and Small Piston 4 Pot Rears 300mm Rotors. Surprisingly cheap just have to get custom dog bones and lightweight rotors made, no biggie. Can't wait to test these out gonna put me through the windscreen.

Brembo_Front__Rear_Brake_Caliper_Set_Nascar_Arca.jpg

Off topic from money-

I was speaking to a guy in the states on the topic of gearbox and diff oils and he seemed to think Redline oils were bad and to stay away from them and that Amsoil oils are much much better.

thoughts? Everyone i've ever spoken to that runs Redline oils reps it well so i find this hard to believe.

Sheep....? It's proven to work.... to a point.

We tested it in a S15 running a Rb25 cogswapper, was great! until the shit got hot and basically became glue... and when I mean glue, it wouldnt let the shifter move from 3rd cog...

Swapped it out (went in because I have it in the GTR's PPG box) and had no more problems even in same form of flogging.

I run Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my gearbox and its better then ever. All good that stuff :thumbsup:

as posted Above.

Coincidentally, I gave PPG a call today and had a chat about oil to use with my gearset. And will be moving to Martini 75-140 as soon as I am ready to swap the redline oil out.

Sheep....? It's proven to work.... to a point.

We tested it in a S15 running a Rb25 cogswapper, was great! until the shit got hot and basically became glue... and when I mean glue, it wouldnt let the shifter move from 3rd cog...

Swapped it out (went in because I have it in the GTR's PPG box) and had no more problems even in same form of flogging.

as posted Above.

Coincidentally, I gave PPG a call today and had a chat about oil to use with my gearset. And will be moving to Martini 75-140 as soon as I am ready to swap the redline oil out.

Did Redline Exist when your Car was last on the road :P

I get your point, its been a bit hit and miss lately. Some people complaining about it shooting out the breathers and after x amount of km it becomes worse then its ever been with any other oil

Mine is better off with it. But not for everyone. I cant say a bad word about them for that reason :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...