Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

180SX Project is going full steam ahead now, I want the car ready for 2014 WTAC Open Class and Drift it as well. Working out a list of parts I need to be competitive and not do it half arsed.

So far:

-Hypertune Plenum

-Hypertune 3" Throttle Body

-Hypertune Fuel Rail

-Powered By Max full Suspension Catalogue under it.

-Wilwood 6pot Brake 355mm Front

-Wilwood 4pot 330mm Rear

-Tilton Adjustable Pedal Box

-Wilwood Bias Valve

-Wilwood Dual Hand Brake Caliper

-Vipec V44

-Mazworx Dry Sump Kit (Maybe)

-Massive Aero Kit Custom Made.

-Fuel System out of R32 Drag Car

-Bride Zeta III Seat

-Cam Spec roll cage

-New Engine when this one shits its self

-Custom Titanium Exhaust 3" Side pipe

-Custom Titanium Screamer pipe aimed out the bonnet :woot:

-Massive 305mm Semi Slick tyres Rear.

Gonna be mental can't wait

Why not Ikeya or cusco etc gear over the PoweredByMax stuff? not the greatest gear you can get, especially when your list has some of the 'bigger' name brands on the go

So...... what happened to the PBM gear being given a go / having good feedback / Ikeya catalogue being not worth the price tag?

Also, a dry sump LS1 is 180 od KG. an SR is a whole of ~130-140kg...............

Throwing an LS wont affect balance / weight distribution at all really, and the fact It'd have a mountain of torque...............

PS.... DET head will never, have the same flow properties as a VE(T)

So...... what happened to the PBM gear being given a go / having good feedback / Ikeya catalogue being not worth the price tag?

Also, a dry sump LS1 is 180 od KG. an SR is a whole of ~130-140kg...............

Throwing an LS wont affect balance / weight distribution at all really, and the fact It'd have a mountain of torque...............

PS.... DET head will never, have the same flow properties as a VE(T)

1. I got a really good deal on the Ikeya Formula Gear ended up costing me a lil bit less then what the PBM parts would have been worth.

2. I'm not a V8 kinda person, I'm a import person + not allowed V8's in WTAC (2012 rules, 2013 rules have not been released) and all the fastest cars use either SR20's, 4G63's or Rotaries. RB's and 2JZ are too heavy.

3. I have not ruled out a VET head, trying to source one without buying a complete engine is a little bit difficult at the moment they are in such high demand.

4. Aim of the car is to be as light as possible my target is 1000kg, which is possible with a power figure of 600-700rwhp as Eastern Creek requires big HP. Nemo is running 900HP and Scorch has 800HP. My car car will be not up to their caliber nor is my driving technique that great. But i'm gonna try my damn hardest to make this car as competitive as possible. Have done is so far with the R32 Drag Car, can't see why I can't do the same with this car. I have not quite 2yrs to complete this car mostly by myself, gonna be a mammoth task hopefully pull it off.

I am a VIP customer at a lot places lol and it's a secret ;)

HAHAHAHAHAHA yeah right.... brand new ikeya even at discounted prices wouldnt beat PBM price...

just goin on rear camber arms ikeya are near on $400 and PBM are $250... so they gave u roughly 40% discount?? i doubt there would be that much mark up in it to slash 40ish % and them still make money

please post an photo of ur receipt so i can shut my mouth

HAHAHAHAHAHA yeah right.... brand new ikeya even at discounted prices wouldnt beat PBM price...

just goin on rear camber arms ikeya are near on $400 and PBM are $250... so they gave u roughly 40% discount?? i doubt there would be that much mark up in it to slash 40ish % and them still make money

please post an photo of ur receipt so i can shut my mouth

I got a huge amount of loyalty points at Nengun which i was gonna cash in, but i had to cancel the order this morning as my piece of shit Ford Fairlane is on its last legs and i think these hot summer days are gonna be the death of it, couldn't be f**ked spending money on it either. Looks like i'll be ordering my new car sooner than I wanted too. So i have to hold back on the 180 for a little while :unsure: .

I got a huge amount of loyalty points at Nengun which i was gonna cash in, but i had to cancel the order this morning as my piece of shit Ford Fairlane is on its last legs and i think these hot summer days are gonna be the death of it, couldn't be f**ked spending money on it either. Looks like i'll be ordering my new car sooner than I wanted too. So i have to hold back on the 180 for a little while :unsure: .

f**ken nengun hahaha....

what new car u gettin ?

At this stage my wife and I have both come to an agreement of a FJ Cruiser, but that is subject to change if I change my mind lol. Either way the car will be some sort of 4wd as I need a good car to tow my car trailer (when i get one). + Me, my brother and Kingy wanna do some 4wd adventures up to the Cape and shit like that. So car will have to be decked out with heaps of cool shit like lift kits, big muddies, etc.

Yeah stock standard one's are, the stuff i'm gonna do to it will look pretty deadly so many parts you can get for them form US of A it will be kick ass maybe TRD supercharger kit will be the go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...