Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah that's the plan, A new R32 GTR Drag car chassis is getting built and the old chassis will be sitting there not being used going to waste so I thought this was an opportune moment to use it for Time Attack. The car is perfectly setup for it already just have to change a few things. I shall call it The R35 slayer, I told Spencer I am going to beat his car ;) .

hahaha that wont be hard... his car will never get done :P so all u need to do is get urs going n u win lol and the new drag chassis going tube and glass shell ?

Haha yeah he might beat me I just bought a house and the missus wants to do renovations :closedeyes: so i'm gotta do lots of overtime I guess, its gonna cost me approx. $45k to get the R32 in prime Time Attack condition to compete with the big boys or a lot less if I go povo setup. Will have to do more sums and weigh up the options.

The new GTR chassis is going be full tube prostock style frame work with a full fibre glass front section the rest will be original steel GTR chassis. Custom tube subframe's with modified suspension towers to allow bigger rubber. Engine will be the current one for now but will probably change turbo setup to a 1600-1800HP system and upgrade to a Liberty Clutch less Air shifted Transmission, that will put us straight into 7 second territory. Plans are in the works for a Billet engine, combo undecided yet, my brother keeps throwing the VR38TT idea at me, I think he is f**king dreaming :woot: .

Haha yeah he might beat me I just bought a house and the missus wants to do renovations :closedeyes: so i'm gotta do lots of overtime I guess, its gonna cost me approx. $45k to get the R32 in prime Time Attack condition to compete with the big boys or a lot less if I go povo setup. Will have to do more sums and weigh up the options.

The new GTR chassis is going be full tube prostock style frame work with a full fibre glass front section the rest will be original steel GTR chassis. Custom tube subframe's with modified suspension towers to allow bigger rubber. Engine will be the current one for now but will probably change turbo setup to a 1600-1800HP system and upgrade to a Liberty Clutch less Air shifted Transmission, that will put us straight into 7 second territory. Plans are in the works for a Billet engine, combo undecided yet, my brother keeps throwing the VR38TT idea at me, I think he is f**king dreaming :woot: .

Please Please Please get a billet block for the time attack car! That will give you better weight distribution. I'd love to see a R32 GTR with such little weight.

Ben, have you followed that facebook build with the 180SX and GTR drivetrain? He's a school kid in europe building it all himself. Kid is a little weapon thats for sure.

I've been wanting to build one for a looooong time. As soon as a cheap R32 GTR pops up I will be grabbing it.

Sorry its a bad photo, but does anyone know if anywhere in Mackay sells these, preferably in an assortment pack. I need some for all my boost lines

miikuREKr1kCtXtA8WJJNOg.jpg

I havent really looked anywhere, hoping to get an answer straight away that will point me in the right direction.

Please Please Please get a billet block for the time attack car! That will give you better weight distribution. I'd love to see a R32 GTR with such little weight.

Ben, have you followed that facebook build with the 180SX and GTR drivetrain? He's a school kid in europe building it all himself. Kid is a little weapon thats for sure.

I've been wanting to build one for a looooong time. As soon as a cheap R32 GTR pops up I will be grabbing it.

Nah haven't seen the link on 180sx.

I can't justify a billet block for a Time Attack car it's 10K just for the bare block, that money could by me a lot of light weight body components or better funding in loosing Unsprung and rotating mass will give you the biggest benefit, Carbon fibre clutch, carbon tailshaft, carbon brake rotors, lightweight monoblock calipers, this is the biggest gain you will make and also the most expensive.

Sorry its a bad photo, but does anyone know if anywhere in Mackay sells these, preferably in an assortment pack. I need some for all my boost lines

miikuREKr1kCtXtA8WJJNOg.jpg

I havent really looked anywhere, hoping to get an answer straight away that will point me in the right direction.

Nah Cal can't help you maybe try repco or Geoff Walsh. If not little back zip ties that will melt eventually. :woot:

I use all -AN type fittings now on all my important vacuum signal lines, if they blow off you will f**k your engine, I have had it happen before. Wastegate especially, melt that line it will over boost then lean the engine out then say bye bye pistons

Haha yeah one of them is factory heat wrapped so hopefully that will be fine. The other I will probably try and do something with. Just have to work out what heat wrap is best and where to get some. Ben - you might have the best idea on this one? I need to wrap a little bit of wiring as well.

It is pretty snug fitting:

20131121_161235_zpsffbd6781.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

See that Aircon Line in Pic above with the Silver shit on it, my mate melted that exact line in his car it was running a top mount GT3040, it melted through the silver stuff then eventually through the Alloy air con pipe. Best option it to run either the Silicon Fire Flex Sleeving, this is good stuff I use it on my wastegate and oil/water lines on turbo on top of the SS Braid as the rubber inside the braid goes hard and brittle after awhile, this stuff is good for high temp. Plus we also use this awesome titanium exhaust wrap from Quantum Racing in Brisbane on the dump pipe and exhaust manifold. Got to wrap everything makes life much easier especially to work on at the track, might be ok on a street car as you only on full boost for a short moment at a time, but the dyno will sort you out :woot: .

http://vpw.com.au/Category/Index/5553

That fire sleeve would be good but I don't want to crack the air con lines lol. So far have kept all the gas in there so the air con should work when it all fires up.

I've P-clamped that A/C line up a bit so its a bit further away from the action. and I'm going to heat wrap as much of the exhaust as I can but will probably get something to wrap the AC line. I could use some of that fire sleeve and just slit it and zip tie it on, wouldnt be as good as running it over the hose properly but would help a bit. If only I knew someone who worked at cummins, they use the stuff on alot of the QSK engines in our stuff. Must be certain mining companies policy to have it

I'll work something out with it anyway. At least the A/C line isnt anywhere near as close to the exhaust as it is to the comp housing

Had a fairly slack day working on it today. Put my spark plugs in and put the valley cover on etc. Then making some brackets for the oil pressure sensors and the bracket to hold the p-clamp up. Then got the shits with the heat and came home to sit in air con lol

haha nah I dont think I'll make it to the next one. I have to run the engine/clutch in before I can do any hard launches and will drive it for a bit to make sure its not going to explode down the 1/4.

Less embarassing to do that in private lol

Had a win today, finished wiring up the Map sensor and IAT sensor, both seem to be reading alright on the Link G4 software, slight difference between the coolant temp and IAT sensor values (Top Engine Coolant port is still open, no coolant in engine) but thats probably down to the coolant temp sensor being probably near 20 years old lol.

Just have to wire the boost solenoid which will be done as soon as I get some deutsch crimpers on monday to wire up the plug (Awesome that I can use the same plug I used for the PFC boost solenoid) and that will be about the wiring done. Have a switch wired up for launch control etc which is providing the only problem at the moment, albeit a small one. It has an LED built into it, but I can only get the switch to either light up but not signal the ECU, or signal the ECU and not light up. Pretty annoying but can live with it if I have to lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...