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Mackay, Qld, Australia


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Yeah that's the plan, A new R32 GTR Drag car chassis is getting built and the old chassis will be sitting there not being used going to waste so I thought this was an opportune moment to use it for Time Attack. The car is perfectly setup for it already just have to change a few things. I shall call it The R35 slayer, I told Spencer I am going to beat his car ;) .

hahaha that wont be hard... his car will never get done :P so all u need to do is get urs going n u win lol and the new drag chassis going tube and glass shell ?

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Haha yeah he might beat me I just bought a house and the missus wants to do renovations :closedeyes: so i'm gotta do lots of overtime I guess, its gonna cost me approx. $45k to get the R32 in prime Time Attack condition to compete with the big boys or a lot less if I go povo setup. Will have to do more sums and weigh up the options.

The new GTR chassis is going be full tube prostock style frame work with a full fibre glass front section the rest will be original steel GTR chassis. Custom tube subframe's with modified suspension towers to allow bigger rubber. Engine will be the current one for now but will probably change turbo setup to a 1600-1800HP system and upgrade to a Liberty Clutch less Air shifted Transmission, that will put us straight into 7 second territory. Plans are in the works for a Billet engine, combo undecided yet, my brother keeps throwing the VR38TT idea at me, I think he is f**king dreaming :woot: .

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Haha yeah he might beat me I just bought a house and the missus wants to do renovations :closedeyes: so i'm gotta do lots of overtime I guess, its gonna cost me approx. $45k to get the R32 in prime Time Attack condition to compete with the big boys or a lot less if I go povo setup. Will have to do more sums and weigh up the options.

The new GTR chassis is going be full tube prostock style frame work with a full fibre glass front section the rest will be original steel GTR chassis. Custom tube subframe's with modified suspension towers to allow bigger rubber. Engine will be the current one for now but will probably change turbo setup to a 1600-1800HP system and upgrade to a Liberty Clutch less Air shifted Transmission, that will put us straight into 7 second territory. Plans are in the works for a Billet engine, combo undecided yet, my brother keeps throwing the VR38TT idea at me, I think he is f**king dreaming :woot: .

Please Please Please get a billet block for the time attack car! That will give you better weight distribution. I'd love to see a R32 GTR with such little weight.

Ben, have you followed that facebook build with the 180SX and GTR drivetrain? He's a school kid in europe building it all himself. Kid is a little weapon thats for sure.

I've been wanting to build one for a looooong time. As soon as a cheap R32 GTR pops up I will be grabbing it.

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Sorry its a bad photo, but does anyone know if anywhere in Mackay sells these, preferably in an assortment pack. I need some for all my boost lines

miikuREKr1kCtXtA8WJJNOg.jpg

I havent really looked anywhere, hoping to get an answer straight away that will point me in the right direction.

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Please Please Please get a billet block for the time attack car! That will give you better weight distribution. I'd love to see a R32 GTR with such little weight.

Ben, have you followed that facebook build with the 180SX and GTR drivetrain? He's a school kid in europe building it all himself. Kid is a little weapon thats for sure.

I've been wanting to build one for a looooong time. As soon as a cheap R32 GTR pops up I will be grabbing it.

Nah haven't seen the link on 180sx.

I can't justify a billet block for a Time Attack car it's 10K just for the bare block, that money could by me a lot of light weight body components or better funding in loosing Unsprung and rotating mass will give you the biggest benefit, Carbon fibre clutch, carbon tailshaft, carbon brake rotors, lightweight monoblock calipers, this is the biggest gain you will make and also the most expensive.

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Sorry its a bad photo, but does anyone know if anywhere in Mackay sells these, preferably in an assortment pack. I need some for all my boost lines

miikuREKr1kCtXtA8WJJNOg.jpg

I havent really looked anywhere, hoping to get an answer straight away that will point me in the right direction.

Nah Cal can't help you maybe try repco or Geoff Walsh. If not little back zip ties that will melt eventually. :woot:

I use all -AN type fittings now on all my important vacuum signal lines, if they blow off you will f**k your engine, I have had it happen before. Wastegate especially, melt that line it will over boost then lean the engine out then say bye bye pistons

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Haha yeah one of them is factory heat wrapped so hopefully that will be fine. The other I will probably try and do something with. Just have to work out what heat wrap is best and where to get some. Ben - you might have the best idea on this one? I need to wrap a little bit of wiring as well.

It is pretty snug fitting:

20131121_161235_zpsffbd6781.jpg

Edited by 89CAL
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See that Aircon Line in Pic above with the Silver shit on it, my mate melted that exact line in his car it was running a top mount GT3040, it melted through the silver stuff then eventually through the Alloy air con pipe. Best option it to run either the Silicon Fire Flex Sleeving, this is good stuff I use it on my wastegate and oil/water lines on turbo on top of the SS Braid as the rubber inside the braid goes hard and brittle after awhile, this stuff is good for high temp. Plus we also use this awesome titanium exhaust wrap from Quantum Racing in Brisbane on the dump pipe and exhaust manifold. Got to wrap everything makes life much easier especially to work on at the track, might be ok on a street car as you only on full boost for a short moment at a time, but the dyno will sort you out :woot: .

http://vpw.com.au/Category/Index/5553

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That fire sleeve would be good but I don't want to crack the air con lines lol. So far have kept all the gas in there so the air con should work when it all fires up.

I've P-clamped that A/C line up a bit so its a bit further away from the action. and I'm going to heat wrap as much of the exhaust as I can but will probably get something to wrap the AC line. I could use some of that fire sleeve and just slit it and zip tie it on, wouldnt be as good as running it over the hose properly but would help a bit. If only I knew someone who worked at cummins, they use the stuff on alot of the QSK engines in our stuff. Must be certain mining companies policy to have it

I'll work something out with it anyway. At least the A/C line isnt anywhere near as close to the exhaust as it is to the comp housing

Had a fairly slack day working on it today. Put my spark plugs in and put the valley cover on etc. Then making some brackets for the oil pressure sensors and the bracket to hold the p-clamp up. Then got the shits with the heat and came home to sit in air con lol

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This was a bit of a bitch...... Tightening oil cooler lines then putting the line to my little oil pressure manifold here on the block fitting. Might cry if any of them leak now haha

20131122_172442_zps3616830d.jpg

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haha nah I dont think I'll make it to the next one. I have to run the engine/clutch in before I can do any hard launches and will drive it for a bit to make sure its not going to explode down the 1/4.

Less embarassing to do that in private lol

Had a win today, finished wiring up the Map sensor and IAT sensor, both seem to be reading alright on the Link G4 software, slight difference between the coolant temp and IAT sensor values (Top Engine Coolant port is still open, no coolant in engine) but thats probably down to the coolant temp sensor being probably near 20 years old lol.

Just have to wire the boost solenoid which will be done as soon as I get some deutsch crimpers on monday to wire up the plug (Awesome that I can use the same plug I used for the PFC boost solenoid) and that will be about the wiring done. Have a switch wired up for launch control etc which is providing the only problem at the moment, albeit a small one. It has an LED built into it, but I can only get the switch to either light up but not signal the ECU, or signal the ECU and not light up. Pretty annoying but can live with it if I have to lol

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