Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha yeah, I read lots of stuff about the Greddy radiators not taking the stock shroud so I was happy when this one did. Everything fitted up perfect, was great.

Coolant temps stick around 83 degrees while I'm driving now, definently keeping the thing cool

Just need some foam for around the top and in a few spots to keep the airflow through the radiator, but its minor shit really

yeah ive never had a problem with shrouds refitting.. I just broke mine lol. but that's good it all fits sweet. its a pain when it doesn't.

get some n1 slots. although depends bow big intercooler is, that will give some extra air through it

  • 2 weeks later...

If anyone is interested I have a few things for sale

RB25DET head, complete internally with rocker covers and CAS bracket. Think it has VCT solenoid, if not I have a spare. Has leaking valve stem seal or needs seats cut so would suit a rebuild. Other then that it's in good condition

2 silicon reducers - 3" - 4" and 3" - 2.5"

Stock RB25DET exhaust manifold with heat shield

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Just down the road at Freshwater Pt near Armstrongs Beach, just inherited a 4 door from my mate who passed away. Joined this forum cos i know f all about skylines but after driving the thing home from Bowen i can understand why you all love em. Will be slowly restoring it to its former glory as time and funds permit

  • Like 1

welcome alan, its always a slow process mate, haha. but you will get there. ive had my gtr near on ten years now, motor was first thing to be done, and just last year was all the cosmetics. slowly tickering with things. most people will be able to help on this forum if you have any questions.

  • Like 1

Thanks Jordan, first thing im doing is the body and then brakes/suspension. The performance in standard form is good enough for now but i have a feeling that once the body work and suspension are sorted i'll want some more ponies. I do have a few questions; Is there anyone you can recommend to supply and fit a body kit (doesnt seem to be many options for 4 doors) here in Mackay?? Are there any workshops that specialise in Skylines in Mackay?? And where would i start looking for things like chrome door trims (got one missing) and new headlights, grill badge etc, are there any wreckers who specialise in nissans??

if your on Facebook (or there may even be a website), search for Proximity Motorsport. Leon has been messing around with Skylines etc for years now.

As for the parts for your car, if your chasing them new, I can get some part numbers and see how much for genuine new replacements. You won't have too much luck with wreckers in Mackay, so you'll either have to go through one in Brisbane or further, or buy new.

If you want me to have a look, I just need your VIN number (the 6U900 or whatever number it is isn't important) and a good description and I can search for you.

  • Like 1

Thanks Cal, i have checked out proximity on face book, was hoping to hear some positive reports before i spend my hard earned so cheers for that, i'll tell him you sent me. I'll have a good think about the genuine parts i would like to get and let you know. Do you work at Nissan? Can't tell you how much i appreciate your offer to help, thanks again.

I don't work at Nissan, but have access to their parts program and know the best place to get stuff from. When you have ordered as many genuine parts as me you soon work out the best way to get it lol, and it sure as hell isn't through Nissan Mackay

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I think Mackay not having much money is half of it. Tune the car, make them happy - then to find out they never had the money to pay in the first place "I'll pay you in a few weeks".

Plus, facebook is bringing the idiots out. Everyone is an expert, no one has a clue..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...