Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Chris,

What roads have you come up with? The main ones along the top of the range are quite boring and on a weekend run will end up with most doing 40kph due to tourists dribbling along there. Very interested to see what roads you have found. :D

Cheers, Chris.

Edited by PHT33

DATE:

19th June 2011 (its a sunday!!)

WHERE TO MEET (sunny coast people)

BEERWAH HOTEL

53 BEERWAH PARADE

BEERWAH

11 AM FOR A 1130 LEAVE.

WHERE TO MEET (Brissy people)

BP CABOOLTURE - (TWIN BP's) NTH BOUND

BRUCE HWY

CABOOLTURE

1000 FOR A 1030 LEAVE

WHERE ARE WE GOING??

for a nice sedate cruise in the hills of the blackall ranges smile.gif

this will take in beerwah, peachchester , Bald Knob , Maleny , Balmoral Ridge , Montville and finally lunch at the palmwoods pub.

-

be there.

route is :

peachester rd- up range- right turn at bald knob rd -> end - left turn up to maleny - rt turn at montville rd break point at the look out and oward from there...

that is a teaser. I'll finish it on the day.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hey people!

Theres a import meet this saturday night at 7:30 at the caloundra bus depo

ive heard there is gunna be alot of different cars there if anyones interested ,im going down in a grey ceffy , i think there going on a cruise at 9? not sure where? but yeah if ya board its somthing to do ....

window wont move at all, ive got to push/pull it by hand to get it to move

you could do some tests to see if its the regulator or the motor or relay or the switch ,if it sounds like the motor is working then your reg is probly stuffed but if no noise then pull your door trim off and

try direct power to the motor of the window (use a battery and 2 wires ) swap them from pos to neg for up and down etc ,if window goes up and down then your window reg motor is ok , if not then start with a new motor ....

if motor is ok id then move to the relay box they always stuff up ,i got a blown one the r/h/r door on my cefiro i found t hat was bugged cos i swapped it for the other side one and it worked but if you have r33 2 door you will need to get one off an other car cos it runs the other door too, if thats ok then try an other switch . Other wise an auto electrition could find the prob but will prob cos $75+ just to find the problem .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...