Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any help would be appreciated here My 32 GTR has developed a stalling problem an it's really starting to piss me off. If there is anyone that has experienced this problem in thier car like before your info might be helpful ive asked quite a few people about this drama an i have taken it to a couple of work shops an they an haven't found anythin it's even been on the dyno at Advan Performance an nothin showed up there it's all most like it doesn't like shown up till i drive it. :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140720-stalling-problem-wont-go-away-gtr/
Share on other sites

Can you give some symptoms of when it stalls?

How it stalls (Does it sputter and cough and then die, or just CONK as if you turnt it off, or does it slowly drop the revs until it dies?)

Conditions under which it does it? (Driving normal, after a hard hit on the throttle and then just releasing the throttle and putting clutch in?)

When it's cold/warm?

Only at night/day (Air temp variability)

More info please.

Yeah thats wat i reckon definately wierd alright. Originally i thought vacuum leak but ive checked jus about every hose out it is fairly modified car apart from internals an turbos. But it's drivin me crazy ive checked the most obvious connections from air flow meters to wiring loom connections.

Hey MBS206 matey all of wat you have said it jus drops out when it feels like it very unpredictable it only basically started happening jus before the Power/FC went in

Have you replaced the fuel filter? Fuel pump?

How old is the battery? As has been said numerous times before, Skylines are VERY sensitive to voltages; if you have a sus battery, it's totally unpredictable how the ECU will handle that.

So just before you did the PFC it started mucking up.

Just does it randomly? I'm putting money on a very small vacuum leak. I had one also, and mine just randomly stalled. Fixed the leak so far, and it's not stalling. (So far)

Checked the bov? It could well be leaking where BOV joins intake piping.

Does it like to stall if you do a slow gear change whilst cruising along?

Fuel system is ruled out because every thing that relates to the fuel system has been replaced an is brand new etc Fuel inj, fuel rail, braided hoses, external pump an internal fuel pump, billet fuel filter.

I was driving it to day an it was really bad. I'm thinkin it might be a vacuum problem to jus with the symptoms an all.

The battery is no more than 5 months old so thats out the window too. The timer is reading 13.5v in normal driving conditions.

Ive descreened the AFMs, but where they bolt on i know they are cracked would that cause the problem do you think

Please tell us more.

Simply stalling?

Does it cut when your driving.. just loose all power come to a stop on the side of the road, start her up and your off again?

Stalls approaching traffic lights/gearing down etc?

Cruising along does it buck? Then in a similar fashion stall if at low rpm?

Off the top of my head..

Regardless of if things have been replaced or not when its playing up:

Check AAC 'solanoid' is working correctly

Check pwr steerpump idle up is working correctly

Check a/c idle up is working correctly

Check Cas

Check fuel pressure

Check vacuum leaks

Check all earths.

Swap out ecu's

Ive descreened the AFMs, but where they bolt on i know they are cracked would that cause the problem do you think

Put the screens back in (You're talking about the mesh yeah?) and then fix the cracks.

Cracks will enable un metered air, and unfiltered air, to enter the system.

Basically, the car can't tell how much air is actually getting to it!

Even if you just get a roll of duct tape so you can drive to the shops to get the AFM cracks fixed.

I have cracked AFM and it didn't stall until the roller bearing turbo went in, then i start to have this stalling issue as well.

Basically while driving, come to a fast stop, car will stall. Just recently found out its the stupid after market BOV that leak. Luckly i managed to scored a whole stock BOV kit for $100. Ready to go in.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...