Jump to content
SAU Community

Fix For Rattling Window Glass

BCMiller

By BCMiller,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BCMiller Apprentice

BCMiller

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Just picked up my first Skyline yesterday (R33GTS-T series 1) and met my first little "issues". One of the easiest to fix was that when I closed the drivers door, the window glass would rattle around. I fixed this in about 20 minutes in like so:

1- Remove door trim by removing 3 screws at the bottom of the trim, removing the door handle surround (it just 'snaps' off with a bit of pressure on the side closest to the mirror), and disconnecting the power window plug.

2- Simply adjust the two glass guides using the two bolts (see pic) until they lightly touch the glass.

3- Run glass up & down, and open & close door to check alignment.

4- Replace door trim.

Too easy!

post-32450-1162696219.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141889-fix-for-rattling-window-glass/
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Sameo.

Both my windows in the 33 Rattle.

I was going to come searching in the next few days for a fix, might just do this next friday night before the Bathurst Cruise.

I like driving with partly open window, but the rattle was pissing me off!

  • 2 weeks later...
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

i just did it. will test drive it later. they seemed tight already, but i managed to get them a bit tighter up against the glass.

on the other hand, i just found out my drivers door has been replaced. it was previously red. :no:

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Also, there is often the same bolts at the bottom of the glass, that clamp the window regulator to the glass.

Additionally, sometimes (prolly not on the Skyline) there is one more bolt for the frame of the window regulator on the inside part of the door. The part that closes to the b-pillar... roughly where the door-lock mechanism is.

Few more tips?

While you're adjusting those things, take them right out, and clean the furry pad... next time you clean your windows and wind them up and down, you won't get dirty streaks across the glass. (or if the pad is missing, you can replace it).

While the door-trim is off, have a look at the hangar part. Up inside the top of the doortrim. It hangs on the window ledge. The metal parts in the doortrim rattle against the metal of the door. Get some furry sides of velcro, and stick them on the metal parts that face the door. That stops more metal rattling sound.

  • Like 1
ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Be careful if you have tinted windows in that glass, i tightened mine up and scratched the tint when i first got the car.... i ended up loosening it back off and i just don't drive around with the windows half down :no:

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

I dont think mine is scratching the tint/glass. i moved the window up and down plenty of times while adjusting it.

maybe you need to replace the pads on yours.

thanks for the tips. hopefully no more rattles.

nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
Posted

Does anybody happen to know how to adjust how far the window goes up?? my drivers window has all of a sudden raised itself up more than it usually would, which means when i shut the door with the window up the window hits the rubber seals around the drivers door frame and also hits the plastic center pillar cover thing, which is sometimes making it hard to close the door

Any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

I tried to get new furry pads.Noticed they were stuffed when we did the speakers.

Luckily one side has about 3cm left on it and does not rattle when door is shut.(Window down)

My biggest worry is some-one slamming the other door when the window is down.

Went to the wrecker and inspected all the doors to find you are unable to remove them because they fall apart.

The condition of the ones I looked at were no better than mine with somepieces missing or

about to fall.

Went to Nissan and was told the pads only come complete with metal brace.Cost $430 Approx for two.L and R :)

I can have a tool made for $300 and run 100 metres for $1 a meter and sell it to every-one in cut pieces.

Wonder if we can get enough people who would like to share the costs ?

I could design the thing to clip on rather than its poor channel design now.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted
Does anybody happen to know how to adjust how far the window goes up?? my drivers window has all of a sudden raised itself up more than it usually would, which means when i shut the door with the window up the window hits the rubber seals around the drivers door frame and also hits the plastic center pillar cover thing, which is sometimes making it hard to close the door

Any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

Sounds more like the whole pane of glass has gone lop-sided! :P

Might want to check the bottom of the window guides to make sure the bottom of the glass is fairly flush with the bracket.

  • 2 years later...
Gaspard Contributor

Gaspard

Posted
Posted

hmm just tightened this up on my 1996 Stagea RS Four V

Thanks for the pic and tips... could have figured it out, but it's just helpful to have a hint when pulling off clipped items -- gives more confidence that it won't break off.

The noise/rattle is improved somewhat, however I noticed that even after tightening the mechanism still rattles when shut or on bumpy roads...

I found the actual window regulator arm is fairly cheap and has a lot of play.. also the front track has no wheel it's just two pieces of rubber..

So overall.. it's no "merc" but it's much improved.

Has anyone gone the "money-is-no-object" route and actually bought replacement parts for the window mechanism from Nissan, and is it any tighter when new??

Just curious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...