Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 251
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rb25 auto awd - front driveshaft pulled for rwd dyno

249rwkw at 17/16psi 3rd gear

Garrett GT3076 700177-5015 IWBB Turbocharger with ported Nissan 45V4 front / AVO .73 rear housings

60mm diameter 84-trim GT30 turbine and 76mm diameter 7/14 bladed compressor wheel in 56.9-trim

JDM S15 Silvia 450/480cc injectors

z32 afm, tomei head, 3" exhaust, remap

I used a Dynapack hub dyno, they read higher than DD - its not magically higher but enough to make a difference. I don't know what the difference is, the one I did 300kw on is thought of by a few (who are used to Dynapacks) consider it a heart breaker for hub dynos but still no DD style heart breaker.

I know this is probably annoying for you, honestly it was for me too and its all my fault - so sorry about this. I have never removed the PRV as I don't have some vacuum hose long enough to reach from the wastegate to the boost source... the PRV has been spliced into my old one since I got it. I went and grabbed some the other day and went to put it on for the dyno tune (which was booked at the last moment) and found it didn't fit. The result of that is the PRV keeps snapping open and closed and stuffing up the boost curve and makes it not a realistic representation :D

For what its worth, when the PRV settles down the boost holds very very stable - I am going to get some vacuum hose that suits and am being hassled into putting my car on a dyno day in a couple of weeks so may end up just giving in to that without the valve and seeing what that does to the curve. I'll post the boost plot from that :happy: I didn't even bother getting this one printed.

Its definitely going to make it build less, not more aggressively when I remove it - the curve will be more consistant. Strangely it doesn't seem to behave the way it appeared to on the dyno on the road.... Not sure what was up with that.

  • 2 months later...

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

3076 .82 would be the way to go. you will get bored with 270rwkw. atleast with the 3076 you have some more power left in it.

my 3076 makes 335rwkw on e85.

Good to see this thread still going! I see it a lot when I am googleing.

how do some of u guys get over 300kw with only 17psi on 3076r? hmmmm

I made 314rwkw on 18psi with water methanol injection. Torque was 720nm from 3000rpm all the way to the limiter.

mods:

Garrett GT3076, 0.6 compressor cover, 0.63 rear housing

Powerfc (Tuned by me)

Water Methanol Injection

Standard Engine

Standard Manifolds

Front mount Intercooler

Big Exhaust

Nismo 555cc Injectors

Standard FPR

Nismo 275lph In tank pump

just read through most of this thread, some very informative stuff in here!

seems there is not much love for the 3071 .82; is the 3076 .82 really that much better for someone chasing 260-270rwkw?

They aren't really that great. Better off with a GT3076 with a 0.63 rear.

3076 .82 would be the way to go. you will get bored with 270rwkw. atleast with the 3076 you have some more power left in it.

my 3076 makes 335rwkw on e85.

I'll be keen to test that with the RB30.

what would be the difference in response though?

not with a 0.63 rear.

I have a like new 0.63 internal gate rear housing for sale if anybody wants it, and a dump pipe to cat to suit. I'm unloading it because I have a RB2530 and the 0.63 rear might be fun, but is a little too restrictive for the RB30s extra breathing.

Sale thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ml#entry5264403

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i'm looking at buying one of these

700177-5007

gt3076R

external gate

front trim 56, .60 ar front surge slotted

.84 rear trim, .82 4 bolt rear

i have the option of the .60 or .70 front

is tthere going to be much difference?

my combination at the moment is a standard rb25det

Ive got a 6boost and plazmaman

was recently making 300rwkw on a standard exhaust manifold. 3076R.70 front. .82 rear internal gated

i

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...