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hah so true! I was trying to talk my mate into buying that 14k GTR with the dropped valve and putting his RB30DETT in it.. for some stupid reason he prefers it in his commodore? o_0 i must say though, on the strip with slicks there is no wheelspin whatsoever.. just very dangerous to drive on the street :D

His justification was that he couldn't bolt the powerglide up to the 4wd..

then he tried to talk me into buying the engine off him and putting it into my 32 gtst.. I don't think my poor lil 32 would like that too much..

Well i still use my stock cranck shaft and rev the to the 10k barrier. my cranck was extensively prepped tho. it was cryo treated and then nitrated to harden it up, then painstakenly balanced. i put the HKS damper on, and watch the revs fly. i dont push big horsepower on it. want to look into somthing more exotic next year, like a step 3 and a N1 or a GT block next year. i want to rev it 11800 :rofl::P

well thats a good question, how did i come up with this number. well evrybody wants 10k, 11k 12k. i want none of that, more in the terms that my car has to be exclusive. so i dont want to rev 12k, but 11800:D:D

also. if ya want to rev the thing like a motorbike your gonna have to spend som decent dollars up staris to do that. not to mension the oiling system.

cubes and 8k would be the most cost efective. and most of the 2.8 engines in japan stop making power at around 8.5k. evan with 3240's etc etc.

id say the tomie kit is better. just in finish and build quality

anyone have info on the Crower 2.9 kit?

Working on a 2.9L (88mm bore x 79mm stroke), but it will not be available

until Jan-Feb 2007.

Pricing depends on the style of rods, but in the neighborhood of $5000 w/BC Pro

Series (1500HP rating) or $5800 if Carrillo rods desired.

BC 4340 billet steel crankshaft.

BC 4340 Econo or Pro Series steel billet rods w/ARP 220,000 psi fasteners.

CP aluminum forged pistons (any bore size, any compression ratio).

9310 nickel carbon steel alloy wrist pins.

Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings.

Fully system balanced and ready to install.

88x79 gives you 2.883 L so i think it would be much safer to go 87x79 for a 2.818L

2.9 is pushing it.

and most of the 2.8 engines in japan stop making power at around 8.5k. evan with 3240's etc etc

Interesting... a friends GTR runs a 2.7L stroker kit and HKS 3240's and the thing doesnt even come close to making peak power till its past the 10,000rpm barrier, and I dont imagine a 2.8L would be that much different... maybe a few hundred rpm less. Granted while it is making alot of power at 8500rpm, its just starting to get really fun.

Having gone through all these options recently and doing alot of research, I went the JUN 2.7L stroker kit. Value for money its hard to beat. They have been used in many of Australia's high power GTR's with no reliability problems, and depending how much money you have spent on the head as well will spin up to 11,000rpm (change the rods and even higher) and handle mammoth amounts of power (said GTR above runs a JUN kit and reels off 600+kw at all four wheels day in day out).

As for the Nismo crank, I have it on good/reputable word that Tomei actually make them and they are one in the same.

Well i still use my stock cranck shaft and rev the to the 10k barrier. my cranck was extensively prepped tho. it was cryo treated and then nitrated to harden it up, then painstakenly balanced. i put the HKS damper on, and watch the revs fly. i dont push big horsepower on it. want to look into somthing more exotic next year, like a step 3 and a N1 or a GT block next year. i want to rev it 11800 :P:sick:

Why get it cryo treated and nitrided? Cryo is meant to work on the whoel grain structure while nitriding only does the skin grain structure to a couple of thou. I wouldnt have thought it was needed to do both ?

Has anyone every tried to alter the geometry of an RB engine to really make it rev?

What about using an RB30 block with and RB26 crank and pistons. The de-stroke of the engine gives you 0.444" extra deck, and then using RB26 compression height pistons would give an extra 0.020" or so. To restore the deck to 0 you can then run a 6.4" conrod which changes the rod ratio to 2.2:1.

There is a huge range of chevy rods available that would help this too. TItanium and aluminium etc.

Also, i've read you can bore an RB30 block to a 90mm bore, so there's the 2.8lt capacity, plus a 2.2:1 rod ratio, and a crankshaft thats proven to high rpm's from factory.

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