Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt-r Gearbox Removal

Remix-
 Share

Recommended Posts

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

grab a jack & block of wood and put the wood underneath the crank pulley and jack it up a bit to tilt the engine back. also undo the top bolt on the starter motor first, caus ull need to use ur fingers to unscrew it

bell housing bolts, with the motor tilted back, grab all the long extensions u can find and put a uni-joint on b4 the socket and u should be able to undo them that way.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've done this by myself on the garage floor, elapsed time from getting it out to getting back in ended up being about two weeks....(long story) - it wont take you anyway near that long, but it will probably be a complete BIATCH.

Anyway i got some good tips from here so try searching for past threads on the same topic. From what i can remember,

- You'll need 2 x 500mm extentions to get the top bolt(s) out. I used some electical tape on the uni joint to stop the socket from flopping down, but still offer some flexibility.

- Take the front pipe off

- Stubby ratchet ring spanners are you freinds

- If you're changing the clutch dont forget to get a clutch aligning tool to make it easy

- I had two trolley jacks and wanted a third

- Dont forget to block the hose that connects to the rear of the box, or you'll loose all the fluid from the resevoir down

- When you're putting it back on, you have to push the box up rotated (cant remember which way) then when you've got it in position rotate it back - i couldnt get it back in if i tried to just lift it straight up.

hope some of that helps,

Kot

Edited by MrKotter
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

I did mine on a hoist and it was a piece of piss. The starter bolts are a little annoying though! Im sure without the hoist it will be a little trickier. See if you can get a cradle for a trolley jack to carry the transmission..

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

I've done this a few times now and can get one out in about 1.5 hours if it has been pulled out recently.

The first thing you should do is borrow an air compressor and then go and by a supercheap air rachet for around $40. This will become your best friend. This will save you cutting up hands and about 2 hours!

A couple jacks.

You'll need a stubby 14mm spanner for the starter motor. Its easy to access with one of these.

You may possibly need an allen key that fits a 1/2 inch breaker bar to undo the tail shaft. These can be really tight.

For the top bolts you don't need to jack the engine as most people say. Just by undoing the rear crossmember your can get in there with extensions and a socket. Also if I remember right you can reach across the top of the g/box from the passenger side by hand to undo the drivers side bolt once its cracked.

Remember though to leave some bolts in the bottom of the bell housing to stop the g/box sliding off.

Leave the rear crossmember bolted to the g/box to stop it spining around on removal.

One thing to remember is that the transfer case is seperate to the g/box and they use different oils.

Also for a cheap and easy clutch aligning tool you can use a pen with sticky tape wrapped around it if your desperate. I've always done this and had no problems.

Hope this helps.

I have done this many times by myself. Just be carefull.

Remix- Mentor

Remix-

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the box is out - damn heavy thing it is!

I removed the gearbox xmember and lowered the box down with a jack, this gave me enough space to rear the top bellhousing bolts with my 1/4 drive extension bars. The allen key bolts on the tail shaft were very tight, extension bar over the top sorts it out.

Interestingly no fluid seeped out of the hydrualics upon removing it from the transfer case.. any ideas why? Hopefully the pump is not stuffed.

Twisted and bought the box down slowly, was stupidly heavy! I had a mate helping me, I'd recommend having a 3rd person no doubt.

Now to change the transfer case and whack her back in there.. *ughh*

gun32gtr Grand Master

gun32gtr

Posted
Posted

holy shit theres abit to it. im so glad my mates a good mechanic. not long till ill attempt it, sounds like a case of the right tools and abit of time will see you through.

good info everyone will help us heaps

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Interestingly no fluid seeped out of the hydrualics upon removing it from the transfer case.. any ideas why? Hopefully the pump is not stuffed.

Very little should come out of the rear of the box but if you dont block the pipe that comes from the rear it will keep coming out .

Don't forget to bleed the sydtem when you put the box back in, i've seen plenty with air in them after the had a clutch change

  • 2 weeks later...
Remix- Mentor

Remix-

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Turned out Nissan gave me the wrong size roll pin. *insert cursing here*. Anyways new pin sorted, box is all nice and clean and ready to go back in this week. I have never driven the car with ATTESSA functioning, shall be interesting :)

Edited by Remix-
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Turned out Nissan gave me the wrong size roll pin. *insert cursing here*. Anyways new pin sorted, box is all nice and clean and ready to go back in this week. I have never driven the car with ATTESSA functioning, shall be interesting :D

good stuff.

few tips. dont use grease on the thrust bearing or the input shaft caus it can stuff ur clutch, instead use graphite powder. also put a little dab of grease on ur pivot ball to stop any squeaking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...