Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT vs R33 GTS-4 with turbo  

38 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

righto i got a mate thats currently having some sale issues with his NA R33 GTS-4.

so then we got onto the topic about what if we turboed his car? so then yet again a great debate was amungst ourselves.

they claimed that if they turbos the r33 it would completely destroy my r34 GTT

so i guess my question is....because im not so sure about the turnout (i find it hard to believe personally) but what do you guys rkn?

u got a r33 with cooler, exhaust with a turbo form a r33 gtst running stock boost

against

R34 GTT , cooler, exhaust, stock boost

wat would u rkn the results would be?

excluding all factors like weather, day, bloody time of the month shiet.......

pure performance wise straight line who would have it?

Edited by anDru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145764-r34-gtt-vs-r33-gts-4-turbo/
Share on other sites

I reckon a gts4 with a an rb25 would be faster than your car in any circusmtnace.

r34s are heavy square boxes like r31s. An r33 gtst is siginigicantly lighter than an r33 gts4, but the weight of an r33 gts4 and an r34 gtt are similar.

the awd traction will just make it quicker in the twisties, as well as quicker in a straight line.

your car probably has about 160 rwkw. The r33 will have similar.

so power will be similar, weight similar, it comes down to awd v rwd.

Also, it depends on if you put in a turbo motor, or turbo his. from the sounds of your post, you siad turbo his motor. in that case, it would be a high comp motor, so it'll be quicker and more responsive than yours again.

edited: accidentally put r33 gtt above

Edited by MANWHORE

hrmmmm what you say sounds logical, but putting all that power to all 4 wheels, wouldnt power wise be even less?

close match.........comes down to driver LOL

LOL BAN!!!

Edited by anDru

:)

if hes willing to lauch at 6-7000rpm, if hes a pussy then.......that a diff story. sorry to be a smartass there LOL ive seen sti getting flogged with wrx with just pod and exhaust at the drags.

just comes down on how much bog hes suffers and how much traction u have at the launch otherwise if the condition of these two cars are similar i say gts4 ftw

aaahhh good to get some support here. i was the one who told andru that the our other mates car would be quicker should he turbo it. after all, theres a reason there was never a factory turbo 33 GTS4... it would have been a gt-r for half the price! (yes i know it wouldnt have been exactly but you know what i mean)

If we're talking GTS-4 + t yes it could well take you as the high-comp has funny power delivery and would blast off the line.

But hey it'll probably snap things if he gives it too much, you really need GTR or Stagea driveline parts to give it some stick.

If we're talking GTS-4 + t yes it could well take you as the high-comp has funny power delivery and would blast off the line.

But hey it'll probably snap things if he gives it too much, you really need GTR or Stagea driveline parts to give it some stick.

thats exactly what i said. ur still gonna have NA breakes NA this and NA that..and u just slapped on a turbo that i believe would have some troubles running within a NA engine.

personally i think his bound to run into alot of problems and in the end wont even be able to get off the line at 2RPM....

thats exactly what i said. ur still gonna have NA breakes NA this and NA that..and u just slapped on a turbo that i believe would have some troubles running within a NA engine.

personally i think his bound to run into alot of problems and in the end wont even be able to get off the line at 2RPM....

yes it will have NA brakes, but your first question was who would win a straight line drag, bigger brakes dont make you go faster in a straight line, not as much as type R stickers anyway :dry: .

philta, yes i have driven awd cars, not hard out, but you say you need revs to launch good, so wouldnt it make sense that the driver just revs it harder.... alot of ppl are sayin the 4wd will bog down if u dont give it enough, but the question was about all things being equal... things like THE DRIVER.

just car for car which would be faster?

oh and btw, still hasnt been decided if its just turboing his old motor, or to do a complete transplant, but for this comparison, use the latter of the two

edit - actually, go with turboing his old motor, that way no one can use the '33 motor has 20kw less' cause obviously wouldnt use a 34 motor if converting

Edited by VB-

I am going against the grain here.

I honestly beleive the 34 will win easily. I have alot of respect for the NEO6 engine and it is greatly improved over the R33rb25, with more torque and greater power.

Also a GTS4-t will be heavier than a 34GTt; if you want to prove it i can provide the scales.

You mentioned keeping the boost std in both cars, why? Standard boost in a gts4 is 0psi, with NA comp he will be lucky to run 7psi safely, then he still needs some kind of piggy back ecu (or a plug-in). So why not make it a level playing ground. Both cars have ecu's, running as much boost as safely required.

In the twisties the GTS4 will fall off the cliff or into an embankment after 3 bends. Remember it is a heavier car with only 2pots at the front and 1pot at the rears.

My 2c

I am going against the grain here.

I honestly beleive the 34 will win easily. I have alot of respect for the NEO6 engine and it is greatly improved over the R33rb25, with more torque and greater power.

Also a GTS4-t will be heavier than a 34GTt; if you want to prove it i can provide the scales.

You mentioned keeping the boost std in both cars, why? Standard boost in a gts4 is 0psi, with NA comp he will be lucky to run 7psi safely, then he still needs some kind of piggy back ecu (or a plug-in). So why not make it a level playing ground. Both cars have ecu's, running as much boost as safely required.

In the twisties the GTS4 will fall off the cliff or into an embankment after 3 bends. Remember it is a heavier car with only 2pots at the front and 1pot at the rears.

My 2c

because when u add more mods, its too varied. i can find you a hundred R33 GTSt's with exhaust/cooler/boost the basics, and power levels with vary by 50rwlw or more, by limiting mods you try to keep it more even.

and it was about straight line drag, so handling and braking doesnt come into it.

when we were first arguing, we agreed on 'standard boost', workin on the theory we converted to turbo motor, not just bolted on a turbo. i just said in my earlier post, for this example say we bolted on a turbo so there wasnt anyone saying the NEO has 20kw more... like you just said.

in the end if my mate goes through with this, power at the engine will end up pretty similar, its just a matter of which chassis will use the power more effectively

Edited by VB-

If you install a turbo on a gts4, you will need an aftermarket ecu to run it. Now from my experience; the second biggest noticable modification was installing an aftermarket ecu (the biggest came yrs later when i upgraded the turbo), as this free'ed up ALOT of mid-range torque and power. So you're really not comparing "apples with apples". Keep the same boost, mods, etc, but both cars need a/m ecu's to be on a level feild.

Still have my money on the 34.

You may not have originally discussed "twisties", but the topic has been raised in this thread.

PS: You are talking about installing a std rb25 turbo on the N/A, as this will also affect the outcome.

Also note that power variations also exist between std cars, especially when they get as old as ours, so blaming the variance due to modification is really irrelavent. If it is a good engine and makes good power, great. If it is a weak engine and is tired, too bad :D

Race with what you got, with the same level of modification.

Hope to see the challenge at Calder Park Rwy!!

If you do it on the street i truely hope you get caught.

Hope to see the challenge at Calder Park Rwy!!

If you do it on the street i truely hope you get caught.

calders a bit far but any form of race will be held legally of course.

as for comparing the cars, in reality, the GTS4 will probly have a whole host of mods if he goes thru with it, but just for comparisons sake, and make andrew not feel so bad that a 33 will be quicker than his car, we just say there'll only be the basic mods, when in reality.... who'd go to all that effort to have a stockish car

Edited by VB-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...