Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ben,

I have the same LM GT4 (19/10.5 +15).

How did you manage to get your rear wheels to sit so far in/under the guard. My rear rims stick out a lot more than yours.

And I think you mentioned your tyres are 285 wide. What brand are they?

Thanks

MIchael

Hey Mic, now you've got me stumped, as they just bolt on mine! Tyres are Nankangs. Pics of yours mate? I'm interested to work this out.

I need to meet someone with a decent camera! lol Here's mine, snapped with a 2 meg Nokia :laugh:

Intrepid009.jpg

07032010024.jpg

06032010.jpg

Nice C-West body kit!

Nismo LMGT4's looks GREAT!

You need a better offset in the rear tho.

More of a Negative offset to fill out your rear guards.

IMO :D

Here's the pic Benny

post-51312-1270127345_thumb.jpg

I'll snap a pic of mine on flat ground in the garage this afternoon. I'll also grab a straight edge try and gauge some measurements re gaurd clearence with that.

It's also worth noting I run close to 3 degrees of neg in the rear.

Edited by Marlin
Nice C-West body kit!

Nismo LMGT4's looks GREAT!

You need a better offset in the rear tho.

More of a Negative offset to fill out your rear guards.

IMO :D

Thanks mate :laugh: These genuine kits are so nicely made! I was astounded to see the quality compared to our home grown copy stuff.

Without much camber in the rear, the wheel is actually nearly level with the gaurd, but as I've now got about 3 degrees on it, it moves the upper wheel in a little. I small spacer would be sufficient if it bothered me, as I'm not going to order new wheels, they're kind of expensive. I'm led to believe these are also the only offset that Rays make them in 19x10.5. :D

Thanks mate :P These genuine kits are so nicely made! I was astounded to see the quality compared to our home grown copy stuff.

Without much camber in the rear, the wheel is actually nearly level with the gaurd, but as I've now got about 3 degrees on it, it moves the upper wheel in a little. I small spacer would be sufficient if it bothered me, as I'm not going to order new wheels, they're kind of expensive. I'm led to believe these are also the only offset that Rays make them in 19x10.5. :(

If I were to go a full body kit on a R34 GTR, C-West would be the one, with the Version 3 Front Bar. which I think it what you got.

Can't say I am a fan of the silver mesh though...

Or Nismo Z-Tune Front guards and Nismo Body kit is another I would go for.

Ah yes, spacers will help! +1 for that.

I too have a (from memory) 5mm spacer in my rears, just give it that extra fill out.

What offset is your wheels?

Is that the Yokohama ADVAN R34 GTR in the last pic?

As in the Hi Octane Racing one?

That car is Friggin awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...