Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, so it has 3 flashes in quick sucession, then 1 flash and a long pause... so I'm assuming its a 4 flasher. Are these codes the same as R32? Thats the only list of Attesa codes I have found on here.

yeah 99% sure its the same....which makes it one of the rear wheel speed sensors, a bit strange.

does ABS work OK? I am pretty sure they both read the same sensor.

manual seems to suggest it is likely to be faulty ETS control unit which is bad news

ok, so it has 3 flashes in quick sucession, then 1 flash and a long pause... so I'm assuming its a 4 flasher. Are these codes the same as R32? Thats the only list of Attesa codes I have found on here.

hey christian

the fault code is the number of flashes 1 second apart so if there is one fault say code =3 you get 3 1second flashes with 1 second between each flash then a 4 second gap then it will repeat the 3 flashes it will continue until you switch off the ignition.

if you had 2 error codes say code 1 and code 3 then you get 1 flash then 4 seconds off then three 1 second flashes then 4 seconds off then 1 flash and continues until swithced off

if you have 1 and 3 its 1 =right front speed sensor or circuit and 3=rear right speed sensor or circuit.

Thanks for that. That seems right, because there was a definate gap between the 3rd and 4th flash.

So, where do I go from here to fix this? Can I replace or test the sensors and circuits? Or is this something for a mechanic to do?

Christian

Thanks for that. That seems right, because there was a definate gap between the 3rd and 4th flash.

So, where do I go from here to fix this? Can I replace or test the sensors and circuits? Or is this something for a mechanic to do?

Christian

the test for the sensors is pretty simple, sensor circuits resistance is between 0.8k ohms and 2.2k ohm, you unplug the connectors at the ecu to do the test but its a bit hard to explain which pins on the plug, do you have a multimeter to test for resistance?

the test for the sensors is pretty simple, sensor circuits resistance is between 0.8k ohms and 2.2k ohm, you unplug the connectors at the ecu to do the test but its a bit hard to explain which pins on the plug, do you have a multimeter to test for resistance?

My multimeter broke, I have needed to replace it for a while. But, I guess I'll need to find the Attesa ECU pinout guide...

My multimeter broke, I have needed to replace it for a while. But, I guess I'll need to find the Attesa ECU pinout guide...

dont know if this is readable the paint version is 1meg you can see numbers

post-23827-1165917073.jpg

is there a good way to send the 1meg file ?

Hey, you could still upload it as an attachment, or email it to me ([email protected]) or put it in your gallery on here.

I'll add all this info to the wiki too.

Thanks heaps for this help!!

Hey, you could still upload it as an attachment, or email it to me ([email protected]) or put it in your gallery on here.

I'll add all this info to the wiki too.

Thanks heaps for this help!!

the paint vers

nope wont attach the 1meg file

i will mail it

  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...