Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I dunno about an RB25s strengths Lith but the people who sold them used less turbo and not a whole lot of boost or intercooler exhaust etc .

I will agree that a model specific GTRS is not real big but when you compare them to the factory turbo they are not tiny either . I think you need to keep things relative meaning look at an RB30ETs turbo or the one off the single turbo four cam VG30DET . Hardly big for the engines capacity .

Not too long back I was speaking to SK because my engine is very similar to how theirs was , the major difference at one stage being the GReady copy inlet manifold and they used a GCG Hi Flow in OP6 form . Also they used a 32GTR intercooler . Scott from Insight tuned that car and asked Gary how high they wanted it to go rev wise because the power was not dropping off , it kept climbing . In final form their engine had better rods and forged pistons and it cranked out 266 RWKW , it was rev limited to about 8200 . Gary said it was a great wide ranging thing and very torquey everywhere .

It was raced from time to time and never warped exhaust manifolds or turbine housings , it used Shell 100 E5 till that finished and then Ultimate 98PULP .

It would have gone even better on E70/E85 but we'll never know what the numbers would have been , guesses 270 with more torque everywhere .

He believes the secret was the larger exhaust valves porting and the Poncams , and the 9.3ish static CR .

There was at one stage a few comparisons of GTRSs and OP6 GCG Hi Flows and people who had used both claimed the performance was similar with the RS being slightly more responsive in transients . Ask Woolverine .

Anyway I started this thread because at that stage I wanted a GT3076R and I was more interested in better transients and a slightly lower boost threshold if possible . I was never really happy with the GT3071Rs and HKS must have had issues with that combination and used a cropped turbine in their version . HKSs sweet spot with GT3037s is the 52T version when not looking for outright top end performance .

I'm repeating myself again , if I can get better light load performance out of E70 I may still use my GT30 turbo but that means taking things to a higher level to support the GT30s gas flow requirements , pointless spending more money if what I'm currently using is good enough - for me .

Lith if I had the same 266 kw and it took a 0.82 IW GT3076R to get 300 , 34 more , is it worth it ?

I won't agree on your theories on fuel consumption because I believe the most torque from the least revs combined with close to chemically correct mixtures is where its at . In other words make the air pump (engine) as efficient as possible at turning chemical energy into heat energy and do so at modest revs . Most late cars except tiny boxes have moonshot gearing these days and if you can run leanish mixtures at low revs making adequate torque you will get good consumption . When you add a reasonably big turbo (compared to OE) you will get less hot side restriction but at the same time the rotating group spins slower and if thats not fast enough to make torque at cruise revs/speeds you're going back gears looking for revs to make bioost and torque .

ATM I'm trying to get better than 400km/tank on Eflex E70 and I don't go everywhere like grandma . I do the speed limits and its surprising how well my car sails up some reasonably steep grades in 5th at 80 Km/h or from memory 22-2300 revs . That RS is not making much boost to do this and it has the std HKS actuator and the Apexi boost control was set to 12 pounds from the std turbo days . I can't vouch for other peoples experiences but my GTRS is not all in with a thump at 2500 and flat as a tack at 5000 , probably my inexperienced tuning but it feels strongest in the 4-5000 range and its very progressive getting there . I don't want to try driving this car flat to the boards on boost because it needs a tune on the dyno at Insight .

I reckon a flat bar of boost would give it a wide enough range of compressor flow and actually I should go back and look at the map to see where the outer islands are broadest - pressure ratio wise .

Anyway Lith to each their own but I'll offer this . You bring your car to Sydney and drive it in such a way that your RB25 makes decent use of its GT3076R and try and keep your licence . I don't know what you're getting away with in NZ but you don't get away with too much here in Sydney and highly likely Melbourne . If you drive an Import here and get left alone its because they know your no threat to anyones longevity .

A .

  • Replies 220
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

(This is not the same rating as a Garrett GT2871R which is rated at 380HP on a 3l which is about 320HP on a 2.5l)

Can't say I've ever seen say, Garrett, change the power rating based on a motor size. They give an approximate of "350-380" for instance as a guideline.

Motor capacity has little to do with how much power a turbocharger can make as it's peak airflow. Airflow which worked out in lb/min from the compressor map taking into account the pressure at that point. A 3ltr motor requires less air to do it if breathing right, or the flip side, run more boost with the smaller capacity motor.

How the power comes on, where torque is made will all be altered by the capacity - but not the flow capabilities of a wheel. It will only flow so much and unless broken, won't flow any less.

T04E compressor housings before the GTX era were either port shrouded or not , part numbers would relate to housings machined to suit individual compressor wheels . If you have to have one profiled to suit your compressor wheel you need a housing intended for a smaller or smaller trim comp wheel . Also the tip heights are different and it has to be taken into consideration when machined .

AFAIK the GT3576 is just a GT3582R cartrudge with the compressor for a GT3076R in 56 trim . I never chased them up so I'm guessing they are the ones used in the later Typhoons ? Do the current ones crank out ~ 304 Kw ?

The early XR6 GT3582R used a 0.50 AR plain snout T04E compressor housing and I can't remember if the GT3576R uses these as well .

A .

I dont think the pull from a GTRS would be much more than a GT30 at lowish revs, with ethanol the GT30 even on 5psi which comes on very easy is more than enough to pull 5th up a reasonable hill

5psi on a GT30 is probably like 10psi on my old 2871highflow

Edited by SliverS2

This fellas had a GCG Hi Flow a GTRS a GT3082R and GT3076R on RB25s though there were some tuning issues along the way .

Anyway many areas around Sydney have reasonable grades and speed limits of 80 km/h, if you can sail up them at 2300 in 5th why wouldn't you . Crusing around at 100-110 in 5th you could throw the gearstick away because you don't need to change down with any grade I know of ie Catherin Hill down the Hume or Moonie Bridge on the Pacific . This is why in other threads I said that R33s could use slightly taller diff ratios because if they are set to make good torque at low to mid range engine revs they can pull it . If you spent all you time on expressways I reckon pulling 3.9 or even 3.7 diffs would be a snap - provided you have good usable torque in the 2300-3000 rev area . AFAIK overall gearing is exactly the same with GTS25Ts and 33GTRs and I reckon a well se up RB25 can probably make better low end torque than an RB26 and the GTS is a lighter car . These engines had different purposes but note the RB26 was designed to make power at revs more so than an RB25 .

Anyway as I said I don't race and I'm not after high rev or high speed power so what I have is fine at the moment . For a road car that gets driven like a road car it works well - for me .

A .

When I had a GT30 on a RB25 and then later a 25/30 the biggest improvement I made to transient response and low down torque was doing my own ignition tuning. I got it back from what is supposed to be one of the best tuners over here in Perth and whilst the tune was safe it was placid and useless off boost. I started playing around with it and wound in up to an extra 15-20 degrees of timing in some areas with great results. It improved throttle response, torque and fuel economy a lot more than you'd think possible. So if there's anyone with GT30s and other similar turbos and you're not happy with how it performs off boost I'd highly recommend spending some time getting the tune right, it really helps. Just another thing to consider.

I wonder if that's the problem, people only tuning properly for full boost - if you have a turbo that is full boost earlier/easier and both are tuned poorly everywhere but full boost then the difference between a GT-RS and a GT3076R would become quite large. I am assuming competent tuning when I comment on these things.

Well I dunno about an RB25s strengths Lith but the people who sold them used less turbo and not a whole lot of boost or intercooler exhaust etc .

They had a GTR as a flagship.... any thoughts why they didn't release that with a similar spec turbo to the R34 Neo RB25? Actually, don't bother answering- I am bored with this discussion and not interested in what comes back, you have been trolling GT30R threads for years and like writing big posts with your own theories more than considering others opinions and experience. I like these forums for learning (and helping others) and will freely admit I have learnt things from you (a long time ago) but here I feel like I'm throwing my voice at a vacuum.

You bring your car to Sydney and drive it in such a way that your RB25 makes decent use of its GT3076R and try and keep your licence

Have nothing to prove here. I drove my car with a GT3076R for 5 years never getting a ticket, never had a problem with lag, never had a warped manifold, made awesome noises everywhere, and undone a bunch of misconception a few people had readily absorbed from your on forum anti-GT30 propaganda once they actually experienced what a GT30R *ACTUALLY* drives like in person. From my point of view the only thing that gives your licence comment warrant is that the major real world difference between the GT3076R and GT-RS is the GT-RS can give "Oooo" acceleration while the GT3076R is more capable of "F&*K yeah!" acceleration, so a pretty silly comparison to be fair.

Yes you do have something to prove , show me how you can properly use that turbo without breaking the law on public roads . I'd say every time you really did the authorities were not there to enforce the law . If they had it may have been a case of F$$K , no licence and impounded car . Yey .

GTS25Ts and GTts have little to do with GTRs . Rs were a more limited production expensive and narrow focused car . Unique orphan in the world of production cars . The RWD Skylines were more conventional cars that almost certainly made Nissan more money at dealerships . You could argue that a factory standard GTS25T is no real ball of fire but has lots of potential , you even own or owned one .

Anyway to each their own , I don't have any interest in running people on public roads .

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi disco,

what are your thoughts on this turbo?

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/774728/Garrett-GT3076R-Ball-Bearing-External-Wastegate-Required-%28V-Band-Flange%29/pd.php

i know it's the T04S comp wheel although it's a 52 trim.

how different (in the real world) would this be to the GT3076 (with 52T GT37 comp wheel)?

do you access to the comp flow map?

the reason i ask is b/c i have been offered this same turbo (with A/R .63 exhaust housing), with very low kms & very cheap.

just want to know whether it's really actually worth spending the extra $$$ on the 700382-5010

thanks.

It wouldn't be my first choice , its up to you if you think the price makes it attractive . Compared to a GT3037 type GT376R its going to be bulkier with that compressor housing and possibly a bit heavier . If you were going to hold out for the real 52T version do it because of transients and a possibly a slightly lower boost threshold otherwise the 56T one may bee more readily available and possibly a bit cheaper .

I'd also research the GTX3071R because they use a slightly more modern compressor and a port shrouded compressor housing . To me GTX wheels appear to be high pressure ratio wheels so probably good at making power at higher boost levels .

I'd like to see a 3073 HTA on an RB25 but you have to go to GT Pumps or FP to enquire about those .

I don't think any of these would be super responsive on a Cosworth YBB engine .

A .

  • 4 months later...

Resurrecting this zomby one more time...

I think some people were interested in seeing this:

GT3076R 52T 0.82a/r IW dyno plot + original HKS GT-RS dyno

Both @19psi on the same dyno & same set up except; 4" intake, split dump and de-cat

Nuff said ;)

f2f517e7-bbb8-4989-85d5-68f539922ead_zps4d1cbd2b.jpg

383e47c4-87d3-427d-86ac-cdee71080ea1_zpse4ed3ec0.jpg

Well mine finally (fingers crossed) goes on the rollers Monday and will be tuned on E70 or E85 . With a bit better intercooling and a fresh CAS it would be nice to see 260 or even a tad more , probably depends on how well the exhaust works .

I've tried to fix things that get tired on aging cars ie coils/loom/cas/pump as well as a few mild mods to make it breathe a bit more easily .

I didn't set out originally to run the high ethanol fuels but theres probably enough of it around now , mainly Eflex , to make it possible . Gary reckons it solves a lot of heat related problems and I'm with Corky Bell in thinking these are the main enemies to beat with forced induction .

So , the GTRS will be an interesting experiment and if this engine does really well particulartly at lowish revs I may try that 3076R 52T.

I'm almost sorry I opted for the 0.82 IW housing and if I could swap for new I probably would . My theory , thats all it is , is that the ethanol fuel burns cooler and possibly makes the exhaust gasses cooler / more dense / easier to get rid of for a given housing and exhaust system .

Mr Mafia did really well with his 0.63 housing and with a bit of smoothing in the passage it may be possible to make one a tad better .

Anyway thats down the track somewhere , cheers A .

Has anyone done a comparison of the 3076R 0.82 against a Precision 5558 0.63 which is what I run now. I was torn between these two turbos and Yavuz from Unigroup told me they are more or less identical on RB25s but that the Precision does start to shine more on high boost which is what their strength is. The power delivery from the 0.63 5558 is also snappy when it comes on and not smooth /boring, that is what I wanted so I am happy.

Saying that if I had to do a street RB25 again I would go the 'peoples choice' which is the 3076R 0.82 just to try it out and knowing it is a winner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...