Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This Fri/Sat is the pickup day depending on how quick the banks move with cheques (gotta cash the one for my car then get the other cheque for the R)

I'll put up pics n so forth when I get it. 3 cars worth of mates are coming down road trip style to get it, lol.

This Fri/Sat is the pickup day depending on how quick the banks move with cheques (gotta cash the one for my car then get the other cheque for the R)

I'll put up pics n so forth when I get it. 3 cars worth of mates are coming down road trip style to get it, lol.

Look foward to seeing some pics, good luck with the purchase.

  • 2 weeks later...

Got a few maintenance style questions now...

-Is the Nissan 7.5-30w oil sufficient for a car that's basically stock other than a turbo back exhaust and an air filter?

- Does anyone have a problem with the standard Nissan Fuel Filter?

- What fluid are people using in the Diff's (mine is a V-Spec so Active LSD if that matters) Box has just had redline put in it so not worried about that ATM.

- Are standard copper NGK's (as listed on the website) sufficient if I'm happy to change them with the oil every 5,000k's? I read that some people gap them to .8 regardless of mods level.

Anything else I should be thinking of doin in my first fluid flush/inspection etc beyond (odometer reads 35xxxk's)

- Air, Oil and Fuel Filter

- Engine, Diff, Brake/Clutch/Power Steer Fluid/Oil Check Replacement?

Cheers

Quick Edit: What is used in the transfer case?

Edited by ActionDan

Quick answers:

-Is the Nissan 7.5-30w oil sufficient for a car that's basically stock other than a turbo back exhaust and an air filter?

Yes, but just go & buy some Mobil 1 5W50.

- Does anyone have a problem with the standard Nissan Fuel Filter?

No. A Ryco one is ok too.

- What fluid are people using in the Diff's (mine is a V-Spec so Active LSD if that matters) Box has just had redline put in it so not worried about that ATM.

- Are standard copper NGK's (as listed on the website) sufficient if I'm happy to change them with the oil every 5,000k's? I read that some people gap them to .8 regardless of mods level.

Why change them every 5000kms? Good plugs should last much, much longer than that. So buy some decent ones & then you can largely forget about them for a long while. If it is stock, gap them to what Nissan recommends.

Anything else I should be thinking of doin in my first fluid flush/inspection etc beyond (odometer reads 35xxxk's)

- Air, Oil and Fuel Filter

- Engine, Diff, Brake/Clutch/Power Steer Fluid/Oil Check Replacement?

Replace the coolant...

I've posed these questions to UAS also, this is the response.

-Are standard NGK copper plugs fine if I’m planning on changing them with the oil every 5,000k’s? - Yes OK although Nissan Platinum and NGK Iridium are better.

-Is the standard 7.5-30w Nissan Oil fine for a car with an air filter and turbo back exhaust? Odometer reads 35xxx - 10w 40 or 50 weight for bigger hp and for racing.

-Same goes for the fuel filter, is the standard Nissan one a good enough choice? - We use Bosch fuel filter.

-What fluid is best to use in the LSD’s? The gearbox already has Redline Lightweight Shockproof in it, mine is a V-Spec model so has the Active LSD in the rear. -Redline synthetic cant’ remember the exact type off hand need to check with our mechs.

- Since I don't have big HP is a 50w oil a bit over the top and how much is the mobile 1 stuff mentioned?

- At almost $20 a plug for the nissan platinums and similar value for the NGK iridiums they don't seem to represent great value, my previous skyline had them and after 13,000k's they showed fairly standard signs of deterioration - what should expect to get from them?

- Any object to using a bosch/ryco fuel filter?

- Anyone have further info regarding the diff oils?

Quick answers:

-Is the Nissan 7.5-30w oil sufficient for a car that's basically stock other than a turbo back exhaust and an air filter?

Yes, but just go & buy some Mobil 1 5W50.

Disagree with Mobil1 5w50.

Just go with a fully synthetic 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30 whatever you can find. I wouldn't change to a thicker oil unless you find you are burning a shit load of it and then you know somethings up anyway.

Did the guy who sold it to you tell you what kind of oil he'd been using?

I was using Fuchs SuperSyn in my last Skyline, it's 5-40w full synthetic I think but it's not cheap at around $75 for 5L

Atm all I have are the classified pics and they don't do the car justice so I'll take some this weekend =D

Any info on LSD oil guys?

I've noticed, that on full boost the stock boost guage gets pretty close to 7, if not actually on 7, I was under the impression that would be about 13.5psi... but I also though stock was 9psi.. I took a quick look at the hose going into the boost solenoid and it still feels like it has the restrictor where the yellow line is. So firstly, 7 seems high right? Secondly, stock is 9psi?

Thoughts?

LoL, OK OK here's two of the originals, not taken at my place and not cleaned by me (There's not even any tyre shine on it!!)

front.jpg

rear.jpg

I'll have pics this weekend after I give it some ActionDan car wash love and take some nice pics in the sun.

Still waiting on responses to boost and LSD fluid questions plz!

Cheers

I was exactly like you when i bought my 33R Vspec! Im boosting at stock 1bar but after some hurting (when the turbos get really hot) it decides to down-boost! It goes down to 0.5 bar.

Pisses you off when a cocky V8 driver pulls up next to you on a hot day!

I want new turbos!! arghhh

After spending some time finding a faulty AFM I'm not back to fluids (put some new IRITOP's in it so plugs are done). I've got some Fuch's SuperSyn 5w-40 to go in this weekend but would also like to do both the diff's, how much do they take and what are people using?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
×
×
  • Create New...