Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I installed a apexi pod last nigh and i noticed a drop in torque slow spool and a general flatness in performance.Why so? My guess is that its sucking hot air. I have a Unique alloy CAI but when i tried to fit it,it seemed like i needed a FMIC cause the holes in it didnt line up.

CHEERS

Dave

also check all you vac hoses i had the same problem crappy performance etc and one of my lines were split but it seems like a bit of a coincidence that it happnd after the pod filter install dude

i didnt notice much or any difference in power after i shielded my pod compared to before it was shielded.. I wouldnt imagine that it would cause that large a difference.

Did you run a cold air feed to it?

Put the airbox back in

if that fixes it up, you know its the problem

otherwise you might have bumped the AFM connection or something

I put the stock airbox in with a panel KnN.Performance returned.

Hmmmm i thought a pod would provide more performance?

No.

Hot air is powers worst enemy mate

Airbox is the way to go anyhow IMO.

Unless you do some good CAI, there isnt any point... A stock airbox with a good panel filter is pretty good.

GTR airboxes + 350rwkw is no issue

No.

Hot air is powers worst enemy mate

Airbox is the way to go anyhow IMO.

Unless you do some good CAI, there isnt any point... A stock airbox with a good panel filter is pretty good.

GTR airboxes + 350rwkw is no issue

x2

Besides that, I doubt the ability of the apexi pods, as they are substantially smaller than the comparative K&N items and are still an oil-based filter. I think they would more suit an sr, ca etc.

actually....the apexi is the best out there..and no it isn't oil based...

there is a test made by some supra guy iirc based on most pods out there

and the apexi came out on top...cleanest and gave the most power...

if you are getting less performance then you are definitely sucking in hot air..

there is a test made by some supra guy iirc based on most pods out there

and the apexi came out on top...cleanest and gave the most power...

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/1/index.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
×
×
  • Create New...