Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im doing nissan gazelle with sr convertion,l but its a lot of work and cost about 5g already and probly 8 by the time its finished did i mention its been 11 months since i put the sr in and only first ran it 2 weeks ago. anyway what ever you do by the best condition car you can find even if it 3 times the price of a cheap fingerd one it will save you a lot of trouble in the end, ie dint, shit paint, rust, interior,suspention and bushes

just my 2 cents

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Haysey, where are you getting all these pics from? Friggen awesome! :(

Has anyone ever done up a R31 Skyline wagon?

According to redbook they have the same kerb weight as an R32 GTS-T. A turbo on the RB30 would make it bloody quick in a straight line. You could probably drift it aswell :P

Keep em coming :D

just my usual hunting of the net, coming across these things, always liked sleepers, a mate has a old 71 corona he insipired to put a rotor in, maybe one day...

this cressida has a supra engine in it

cressida5base4do.jpg

69636537.9SCIRTg4.Battery1b.jpg

62661027.WYwflxMW.cress2.jpg

im doing nissan gazelle with sr convertion,

Yeah, s12 silvia coupe, but an FJ20T or CA18eT would do it for 14's, could probably even do a nasty NA SR20 with a stripped out interior. I have heard of RB power s12's but I reckon that'd be heaps of work..

627008_148_full.jpg

I know the pic isn't much of a sleeper but I love it..

Edited by SKY32
Suzuki Mighty Boy with a Pulse Jet Engine :P

Or just a 20kg Titanium frame with a Pulse Jet Engine works fine too :rofl:

omg we musta imported half the mighty boys on that site.

my low budget not so sleeper is a $600 AE86 with a $1000 CA18DET.

get an old volvo and stick a V8 in it or a 1jz , front cut for one of those is only $1400.

Volvos have big ass brakes and massive engine bays, not to mention the diffs are dana's on some of the 70's models meaning it's not too hard to get LSDs and different gear sets and they are super strong.

Nothing better than driving this sort of sleeper, I have experience. I used to love driving my old unit around.

As you can see lots of room in the engine bay.

post-271-1167921048.jpeg

post-271-1167921068.jpg

any old datto that came with an L series 6. drop a v8 in....matter of fact i have a midly worked 253, that only had 5 months of driving before the car was written off. that comes with all cross members and mount to drop in a L6 powered car.

v8 specs:Worked 253, machined by Trapnell Race Engines, ACL Race Series flat top fly cut pistons(60 thou) peened rods, balanced and blueprinted bottom end, New port matched Speedmaster single plane manifold, inlet and exhaust ports tidied, 20thou off heads, new Speedpro billet camshaft, new lifters, new double row timing chain, new w/pump and timing cover,Hi volume sump, double valve springs, block hugger extractors, Alloy rocker covers, Hadfield bellhousing, supra 5speed, Built to run straight LPG, but also suits petrol, 5 months old rebuild. Detailed in black and kermit green.

Selling due to crashed car, no damage to engine or gearbox.

Haysey, where are you getting all these pics from? Friggen awesome! :P

Has anyone ever done up a R31 Skyline wagon?

According to redbook they have the same kerb weight as an R32 GTS-T. A turbo on the RB30 would make it bloody quick in a straight line. You could probably drift it aswell :)

Keep em coming ;)

My 2c: this is the best idea yet. Max sleeper doofus grandpa value, cheap as f#$k, good engineering.

There's a Ford Anglia with a worked SR20 in it running around NSW.

It's a Ford (keeps the olds happy), they weigh about 800kg and they look so granny standard that no one is ever gonna take it seriously.

Power to weight ratio is insane.

I've also seen an Anglia with a worked Ford 4 litre six in the front.

Major firewall mods needed but it went like a rocket and handled too.

This second one would definitely keep his olds on side but realistically I don't think any of the projects mentioned in this thread could be done for 5 grand.

If you can prove me wrong though I'd love to see the results.

i reckon the gazelle may be under the budget.

you can buy em with shagged engines for sub$1000.

spend the rest on the engine of your choice.

and afaik, all the R31 and S13 gear bolts up to it, struts, brakes, etc.

so it could be the cheapest of the lot.

rotor powered S12 ftw :(

realistically I don't think any of the projects mentioned in this thread could be done for 5 grand.

the old C210 skyline coupe i had was converted to v8/5speed and LPG for well under 5k.

dads old 620 datto ute.... we converted it from 1.5l 4 speed on the steering column to 2L 5 speed and twin carb, for under 1k..... if you can do the work yourself, conversions are cheap as chips.

Theres a guy around here with a VS ute with a 1jz and massive high mount. The ultimate of work utes.

theres a guy near here also, lives around logan im sure. damn it hauls ass. VS ute, pursuits and is a sleeper as they come. nasty weapon though.

Edited by silverbulletR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...