Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats for the gti-r

it depends on what skylineyou want to compare it to....r32,r33,r34??

Nissan Skyline R32

GTS-T/GTS-4

PRICE: $17K - $35K RWD

DRIVE YEAR: 89-93

ENGINE: RB20DET 2.0 DOHC 24V turbo 6cyl

WEIGHT: 1290kg

POWER: 160kW

TORQUE: 263Nm

0-100: 6.9

0-400: 15.01

Nissan Skyline R33

GTS-T/GTS-4

$20K - $46K

RWD

94-98

RB25DET 2.5 DOHC 24V turbo 6cyl

1370kg

184kW

274Nm

6.2

14.37

Nissan Skyline R34

GTS-T

$50K - $80K

RWD

98+

RB25DET

2.5 DOHC 24V turbo 6cyl VVT

1410kg

206kW

343Nm

6.0

15.00

taken from nissansilvia.com

The GTi-R also uses quad throttle bodies and is giving you around 30kw more in stock form that an S15

As cereal said as funky as S15's are, putting an S15 motor in a Gti-R is

A) ****ing expensive due to cost of S15 engine

B) A downgrade in power

And no, dont believe S15 box will fit either due to 4wd

Originally posted by lixid

ok

well are there many pulser gtir on the market, and are the parts easy to source as well??

because i don't see many gtir on the sydney road

I don't think you should have too much of a problem finding parts for a gti-r, but they probably wont be nissan parts......you'll be able to get Jap performance parts no problems.

There aren't many of them on Sydney roads because there aren't many of them on any roads........Only 4500 of them were ever made.

When I had the cash money for my car I was flipping up for either a GTS-t or GTi-R. The skyline won by a hair.

I'd admit that the Skyline won alot due to looks, as I got turned off the GTi-R everytime I saw the rear end of it...

Does anyone know of anyone who makes a body kit for these things ? NOT over the top. Just like side skirts and maybe a slighly revised rear bar ?

Some parts from the N14 Pulsar do fit...."SOME"

An early HPI had a review on one of them...Interesting. There ARE too many R33 Taxi's doing the rounds these days...

A mate of mine at work has a gtir & i got a r32 skyline.

We usually try 2 get a red light so we can have a mini drag, goin home from work. The gtir kicks my arse by far! & all it done to it was a cat back exhaust + pod filter & i got a full exhaust & pod filter.

2 be honest though, that gtir aint that crash hot. The car interior aint in the best condition, it a lucky dip with imports, you get some good ones & you got some sour ones & ive seen a few sour gtir

He had it for over 6months now & he purchased it for $22K i think it was & little steep i know. I wouldnt personally buy a 90-93 year old second hand car for that price, im sure you can import it & get it alot cheaper then the price my mate got it for.

I got my skyline for under $15k, once i reach $22k im sure my car will skin alive the gtir.

Joe.

The Gti-r is an awesome package, performance wise. They can look pretty tidy (nice one comes around near my work occasionally) but the fact it's a hatch and so small puts me off. That said, i would never bag, nor talk anyone out of buying one.

And if you're gunna buy a hot hatch...make sure it really is a hot hatch :uh-huh:

John at Unique Auto's at Castle Hill has one in Black at the moment. It was well under $22000. He took me for a quick spin last Saturday. Very ordinary interior,,,YUK!!! and don't talk to me about front end drift coming out of corners. That poor little car suffers from far to much weight in the front,,,what would make it worse is modding it,,, so you run a big fmic and doi away with the bonnet mounted one,,,which we all know doesn't work. That would add 25-30 more kilo's to the front,,,,Scary.

I was all for buying one before we got the Skyline,,,,I'm so glad we didn't.

Neil.

Guest lixid

i will wait until i got my power fc into my car and see how it goes

because i am a skilless driver so i think a 4wd will cover some of my weak points while driving. that's all. i didn't know that a gtir is a 4wd. and i thought it is very cheap. once i found out that gtir is a 4wd, with such performance, i suddenly had the thought.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...