Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well so i was sitting on the net, going over all the CAI designs, ones you can buy and so forth. I remebered that a member of the forum had some templates. SO got those and went to work.

My dad and I started in the morning on boxing day, figured we would take it easy, well 4 hours later, and a six pack of beer, and HAY PRESTO, here is the finished result.

The box case is made out of a product called ALUCOBOND, it's a 1mm ally, with 3mm PVC, and 1 mm ally again. You can buy a thicker ones if required. The inside is lined wiht a THERMOFOAM, it's a 15mm thinck high density foam with silver foil, excellent R values, to miniminse heat transfer. I noticed a 6deg C after introducing the foam.

The air is introduced through a 2'5" pipe from the front of the bar and blows straigh into the box.

SO far the results are great, the car is a lot more constant, if you stand in trafic, the heat lag is gone. The air is nice and cool, and the car is a lot more responsive. Fuel ecconomy is up, and the pod noise is reduced to a more acceptable level.

Only down side, on a cold morning, the dam thing hits R&R so dam quick, as the air is so dense, and the box together with the FMIC, really increase the air flow, hence R&R.

I have the templates available, if people are interested, but i modified mine as i went allong, i found that each car is different. I have done this to my friends R33 4door, with an APEXI filter, and we had to extend the main box body and make a different cover top.

I did mine by making the side first and then making up a pattern to fit for the top cover. The side of the box is held in place by two brackets riveted to the side of the box, and bolted to the car using the stock airbox mounting holes. The top is slid inot place under the front panel, and then bolted through the top, into some brass L-brackets. I then finished the alluminium by brushing it with fine still wool. I did have it polished, but it was VERY hard to keep semi clean. Total cost, ALUCABOND, free i got offcuts, Thermofoam $36 per meter, and all the other bits and peices i already had, so that is DAM Cheep.

Tell us what you think.

post-27760-1167857806.jpg

post-27760-1167857835.jpg

post-27760-1167857851.jpg

post-27760-1167857864.jpg

Edited by WogsRus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149816-made-a-new-cai-box-what-you-think/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

looks shmick.

I've been meaning to make one, but just waiting to get my hands on a snorkel before i size it all up.

WogsRus, you should consider selling them on here. I'm sure there'd be alot of interest, especially if your prices arent over-inflated like alot of these boxes are.

Like i said most of the materials for me were of cuts, and there is plenty more to get. The only problem is that each box is really individual, if you want to do it corecctly. I made sure that there was no leaks or anything, the box fitted well. Depending on each car's setup, the pod hole may be in a different spot and so forth.

I am happy to farward on the design templates as were give to me, i can't take credit for those. I simply improved the design a little, and made it more functional.

BUT i suppose if you had to get materials yourself it would range from $50 if you get some scraps and stuff or about $100 if you did it all brand new, but for $100 worth of materials you can get 5 boxes cut.

Edited by WogsRus

Here is teh templates and some instructions as i recived them from the original maker. I do not take credit for these.

MY design is slightly different, in that i made brackets up to hold the side part of the box, and some brackets to screw the top down into.

Like i said i made mine as i went along, but the template is a good base to start with.

If you need any more info, PM me and i'll try and help, and provide some more pics.

cai_zip.zip

Pics.zip

CAI_Template_Inst.txt

Here is teh templates and some instructions as i recived them from the original maker. I do not take credit for these.

MY design is slightly different, in that i made brackets up to hold the side part of the box, and some brackets to screw the top down into.

Like i said i made mine as i went along, but the template is a good base to start with.

If you need any more info, PM me and i'll try and help, and provide some more pics.

Hey all i am in the process of making one of these for my s1 4 door. The only thing where something can differ is dependant on what type or airpod you use. I have an apexi and wog has a hks one. the hks filter sits off a pipe that you can go around where as the apexi bolts straight to the aiflow meter, so its a bit more tricky to get attached

:)

I used the old hole form the stock IC, you can see it in one of the pics. There is a 2.5" pvc pipe that runs form there to the front bar, and picks up cold air form the front of the car.

You could easily use a stock snorkel and plum that inot the side of the box at the top, but i didn't have one.

If you are looking at the pics of the white car, the orignal template pics, he made a hole in the front fender to duct in air. I didn't do this as i already had a hole.

BEST thing if you have a stock snorkel, use that to supply the cold air into the box.

EDIT: I can't spell at ALLLLLL

Edited by WogsRus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...