Jump to content
SAU Community

Short Shift Kits

Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted

Would not use one of these personally since there's no dampener built into it as there is in the OEM, NISMO & C's ones.

post-2420-1168206418.jpg

The dampener is built into the stick itself under ( part of ) the counterweight and helps to shift cleanly and as you can see, this shifter doesn't have a dampener built in.

I have owned and used a C's one which is about a 25% - 30% shift throw reduction and works great. To get the full benefit's your syncro's should be in top condition.

Also owned a NISMO one which is about a 10% - 15% shift throw reduction and works great but doesn't feel much different from the normal one.

Just my 2 cents.

  • 4 weeks later...
vidospace Mentor

vidospace

Posted
Posted
don't waste your money on them, they rattle and are really crap quality. The place that made mine even had the guts to imprint nismo on the side of the shifter.

Oh great! And they dont fit that easily too. My mechanic tried on Sunday and said that the shifter is the wrong size and all. The seller claims that it will fit and their solution was to sent me previous buyers email addresses and ask them how to do it! Not happy Jan!

:laugh:

Haysey Grand Master

Haysey

Posted
Posted

got one for my car from ebay, paid $57+ postage total, didnt have any instructions with it, but once i sorted it all out and eventually got it in (was a bit tight) it felt a bit crap untill all the parts wore in which took a week, now it feels BEAUTIFUL, so happy with it, definately some of the best money ive spent on the car... had it for 6months now and no problems... looks exactly like the one in the first pic...

driving anything else feels like a tractor!

mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
Posted

I have one of these in my 32gtst, looks exactly the same, they are counter weight balanced, and are a solid feel without the damper, feels better like that than the original. My throw seems to be 50 less.. which is great, wouldnt go back. Easy to fit, but the little white cup on the end of the shifter didnt fit into my slot in the box, so i had to change that from my original, does have a little rattle, but sound deadner under the gear boot has fixeed that. For the price, best way to go, reliable, easy to fit.

aaron_25t Collaborator

aaron_25t

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just took ownership about ofa an R33 GTS-T a couple of weeks ago and the car was fitted with a (very rattly)C's copy shortshifter.

Over the weekend (the first time shifting a little agressively) the whole shifter came off. The plastic insert (that goes into the small ball at the end of the shifter and into the selector) had split. It's back in there for the meantime but I have to shift slowly.

My question is: is this part included in the eBay kit? Having never seen the standard shifter I'm not sure if this was a stock Nissan part?

Can this part be purchased seperately from Nissan?

Cheers for the help,

Aaron.

just blocked the noise getting into the cabin. you cant fix the rattle as it is the lever inside the box.... not the rings underneath as you may be thinking. But works an absolute treat!
Edited by aaron_25t
sapsR33 Explorer

sapsR33

Posted
Posted

hey guys

ive been looking for a while to get a short shifter into my 33, and spent a lot of time contemplating which to buy: C's, Nismo or the cheap copies off ebay, until the other day i was on ebay and some how came across and oridinal Tomei short shift kit but was second hand. it didnt bother me though and it had a buy it now price of $140 so i bought it.

i put it in myself with the DIY instructions off an SAU member.

perfect fit, no noises, tight and reduced the throw by at least 35-40%.

i suggest listen to what most people have to say and buy the right parts for your beloved baby, invest in only the best

thats my two cents

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • silviaz
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By silviaz · Posted

      It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • GTSBoy
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...