Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After having fixed a dry solder joint in my AFM tonight(Most likely from the heat I'm about to talk about) I noted that the engine bay gets damn hot and stays hot for a long time (Series II R33 GTR). With this in mind I'm wondering if anyone has endevoured to vent the bonnet or purchase a vented bonnet with the aim of reducing engine bay temps and hopefully prolong component life. I'm not looking for huge rice vents, just options on something practical.

What are peopls thoughts on this idea, do you run the risk of allowing rain/debris/dust/dirt etc into the engine bay in larger than normal amounts, is there a real temp drop as a result, what have people done if they've pursued this idea (pics would be great too).

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had a Carbon fibre vented bonnet and that kep my temps down and also had a inlet over hte air filter. When i went to a standard bonnet i felt the car was not as responsive prob due to no air intake vent. i aslo found on hot days the temp needle ran higher. I have no issues whit dirt or water.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/#findComment-2816241
Share on other sites

I was think bout getting a vented bonnet but i was wondering about driving it in the rain, say if u stop at the traffic lights or something where the engine is gonna be hot does the rain running down through the vents directly onto the engine cause steam or anything?

I also know your no ment to directly cool a hot engine incase some cracks goin from hot to cold that quickly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/#findComment-2816490
Share on other sites

look up the 270R 200sx tuned by nismo

have a look at what they did it would be hard to spot if yor painted the whole lot in the factory colour

the hole I cut is very small and only just behind the radiator shroud and stops just before the rocker cover

hmmm maybe dont have a look lol

just refreshed my memory and its not how I remember it

my advice cut hole in bonnet not frame no one likes a floppy bonnet

fill hole with mesh paint mesh black tada

function without the wank

Edited by 1400r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/#findComment-2816516
Share on other sites

Well what some people do is place a number of washers where the hinge bolts on effectively lifting up the rear of the bonnet letting air escape out the back. You may also need longer bolts.

You could do this before a track event and then put it back to stock afterwards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/#findComment-2816771
Share on other sites

Mmm. I think that would look a bit wierd personally, someone got some pics?

Yes it looks weird. Heat isnt a problem on the street when you're talking a turbocharged engine of course theyre going to get hot. It's good to keep things cool yes but the engine bay has been designed with a higher temp in mind from the factory.

On the track where you're seeing a great deal higher temps is when you need to worry about it and think about getting temps down or moving air around or keeping heat inside the exhaust etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/#findComment-2816794
Share on other sites

After having fixed a dry solder joint in my AFM tonight(Most likely from the heat I'm about to talk about) I noted that the engine bay gets damn hot and stays hot for a long time (Series II R33 GTR). With this in mind I'm wondering if anyone has endevoured to vent the bonnet or purchase a vented bonnet with the aim of reducing engine bay temps and hopefully prolong component life. I'm not looking for huge rice vents, just options on something practical.

What are peopls thoughts on this idea, do you run the risk of allowing rain/debris/dust/dirt etc into the engine bay in larger than normal amounts, is there a real temp drop as a result, what have people done if they've pursued this idea (pics would be great too).

Thanks all

hey mate, i recently got a z tune vent moulded into my 32gtr bonnet i noticed around 15+ degree drop in engine temp.

peeeeee.jpg

and rain gets in. but i dont really notice it bieng dirty or anything. just made sure the seal around my cam covers and coils is in good form!

just adding to the thread after reading the rest of it.. i have been pulled over by police on a number of occasions and nothing ever mentioned about the bonnet, or headlight.. or anything for that matter.

Edited by Angus Smart
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151325-bonnet-venting/#findComment-2816925
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...