Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Expert Advice, Wierd Issue. Blown Turbo

Pauly33GTS-t

By Pauly33GTS-t,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Everyone, :)

I got my turbo back zorst done last night and after around 50-100mtres of driving the turbo blew within under 1second. I suspect that the dump pipe was not made correctly to spec and the turbo over pressurised because the internal wastegate was kept shut, I did not have any signs of wear or anything whatsoever before entering un mentionable exhaust workshop. I was at stock boost (5-7.5psi) and then after the smallest of thrashes in 1st gear BANG. ceramic everywhere. Does any1 know what could cause this? Is it exhaust guys fault, hes reluctant to use insurance to look at it because he reckons his measurements were dead on after double checking the dump pipe. I don't know what to do...

If I do end up needing to buy a new turbo, I want to go hi-flow if I dont get a brand new one from nissan. What turbo do you think is best for under 1000 dollars (pre shipping)?

Thanks for all your help in advance guys,

Paul

EDIT: Car is a R33 Series 2 Manual Turbo. 125,000kms stock turbo (not boosted).

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
Posted
Hey Everyone, :)

I got my turbo back zorst done last night and after around 50-100mtres of driving the turbo blew within under 1second. I suspect that the dump pipe was not made correctly to spec and the turbo over pressurised because the internal wastegate was kept shut, I did not have any signs of wear or anything whatsoever before entering un mentionable exhaust workshop. I was at stock boost (5-7.5psi) and then after the smallest of thrashes in 1st gear BANG. ceramic everywhere. Does any1 know what could cause this? Is it exhaust guys fault, hes reluctant to use insurance to look at it because he reckons his measurements were dead on after double checking the dump pipe. I don't know what to do...

If I do end up needing to buy a new turbo, I want to go hi-flow if I dont get a brand new one from nissan. What turbo do you think is best for under 1000 dollars (pre shipping)?

Thanks for all your help in advance guys,

Paul

EDIT: Car is a R33 Series 2 Manual Turbo. 125,000kms stock turbo (not boosted).

Mate that sucks! sorry to hear it. I dont know much about that sor tof thing to make a comment on what caused it.

In terms of highflow for under 1k , sliding performac eis ur best bet. Check out the traders section there should be a slide add in there.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

For under a grand you really only have the slide highflow as an option.

Regarding the failure, I'd be guessing without seeing the dump pipe but i doubt the turbo failed due to overboosting, more likely the turbine has been knocked/fractured when the install happened and has failed once the turbine speed got up.

QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted

Yep, they will highflow it even with a busted wheel... just make sure to read the Journal Bearing Vs Ball Bearing turbo thread before you spend your money.. cause there is a ball bearing highflow group buy atm...

cheers

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

This sounds like a classic case of heat shock. How long did you allow for the car to warm up before booting it? They do need a little while. I know the urge to try it out is great straight after an upgrade, but you need to at least give it a few hundred metres, preferably a couple of kays, before lighting the burner.

The ceramic turbine is most susceptible when still relatively cool, and the opened up zorst will allow the thing to spin faster so both will add up to crap in the cat and no whoosh.

Try Slide but he may be out of 25 kits. Check his thread.

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeh dude it was warming up for around 3 mins before i took it out, the turbo i dont know tho. it shouldnt have gone past at most 10psi if there was a psi increase, it went RIGHT past it. (and i couldnt pull off foot in time)

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
Fixxxer Community Regular

Fixxxer

Posted
Posted

Well No.1 there is a problem with overboosting if it went right past 10psi, actuator staying closed?

No.2 Who knows what boost it hit, a combination of relatively cool idle exhaust temps, then a big first gear hit, big boost = big turbo RPM + large exhaust temp change = recipe for ceramic failure.

No.3 May have been some damage done to the wheel when installing exhaust, a fracture or complete breakage causing unbalances wheel and it eating itself on the walls of the turbo.

Best get a sliding performance turbo if your looking for a cheap 'upgrade' replacement turbo.

Fixxxer :P

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

My armchair-expert advice (as a slide turbo user) is to grab a turbo of Aaron (slide) here on these forums, awesome things they are. Might take some time, but send him a PM to see where he is with stock and order timeframes etc. Slide FTW!!11!!!11

As for the boost going straight past 10psi, sounds like unlimited boost, as paulr33 mentioned.... seems as if they have hooked up the vacuum lines incorrectly. I did this once myself and was lucky to notice the boost guage showing me 1 bar of boost, in my instance it was like this for 1 second but didnt blow the turbo (45000kms less usage then yours - may have had something to do with it).

When turbo came off I was surprised to see that it was in such good condition, 66skylineGT took one look and snapped it up for his Rb20det '69 'Line.

Damn man, probably a fault from the exhaust place - get the vacuum lines checked out asap (I recommend in their presence) by a skyline mechanic (maybe a local sau expert?) and go from there.

nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
Posted

Does your new dump pipe happen to have a wastegate and turbo gas seperator?? im thinking that possibly it isnt a very good quality dump pipe and that somehow the seperator is blocking the wategate flap from fully opening hence causing it to overboost and blow the turbo!

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

that is what I thought innitially freek but when I looked at the dump pipe after the turbo had gone, he measured it in front of me and apparently "it could not have been so"

so if the wastegate actuator was not working, then causing X boost then it must be their fault for doing that. only a fu*(*)(# moron whos )(*#&_( could do such a think as this. these people supposed to do this stuff for a living they cant make mistakes, its other peoples money they are playing with. I should have gone to ET and payed an extra 200. I've learnt for next time.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just a squirt above 10psi should not have hurt the turbo.

There are many people who have had it spike to 14/16psi for a second without much of an issue.

If the car was already warm... even then 100meteres really isnt there far.

Its probably just your turbos time to die really.

Not a person can predict when it will die, its just one of those things.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

I have a couple of theories:

1/ As Ash has just mentioned; just could be rootten timing and it was about to let go even b4 the exhaust was done. I had my std turbo set to 13psi full-time for one year and had no problems, but i was willing to play the game of "turbo russian roulette" :laugh: .

2/ Easiest way to check if the exhaust was responsible, would be to disconnect the actuator from the wastegate flap, by removing the pin. Then check to see whether the flap has full motion and does not hit the exhaust. Should only take a few mins to check and will clear or condem the w/shop in question.

I have also heard good things about Slide, but never used him myslef.

Good Luck

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey mate, yes the flap was opening and closing, couldnt have been the dumps fault. so it was probably damage to wheel during install or just its time to die... now im getting brand new GT3040 Turbo, SS Manifold from the USA all for 800 dollars AU delived to my door. I have found the ultimate contact and he owes me a favour so this I think warrants it.

I'll get the 3040 in 2 weeks and itll go straight on and yeh thats it... thanks for all your suggestions to the fault, it was very interesting running it by the guy who custom made my dump and installed it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...