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Hey Everyone, :)

I got my turbo back zorst done last night and after around 50-100mtres of driving the turbo blew within under 1second. I suspect that the dump pipe was not made correctly to spec and the turbo over pressurised because the internal wastegate was kept shut, I did not have any signs of wear or anything whatsoever before entering un mentionable exhaust workshop. I was at stock boost (5-7.5psi) and then after the smallest of thrashes in 1st gear BANG. ceramic everywhere. Does any1 know what could cause this? Is it exhaust guys fault, hes reluctant to use insurance to look at it because he reckons his measurements were dead on after double checking the dump pipe. I don't know what to do...

If I do end up needing to buy a new turbo, I want to go hi-flow if I dont get a brand new one from nissan. What turbo do you think is best for under 1000 dollars (pre shipping)?

Thanks for all your help in advance guys,

Paul

EDIT: Car is a R33 Series 2 Manual Turbo. 125,000kms stock turbo (not boosted).

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
Hey Everyone, :)

I got my turbo back zorst done last night and after around 50-100mtres of driving the turbo blew within under 1second. I suspect that the dump pipe was not made correctly to spec and the turbo over pressurised because the internal wastegate was kept shut, I did not have any signs of wear or anything whatsoever before entering un mentionable exhaust workshop. I was at stock boost (5-7.5psi) and then after the smallest of thrashes in 1st gear BANG. ceramic everywhere. Does any1 know what could cause this? Is it exhaust guys fault, hes reluctant to use insurance to look at it because he reckons his measurements were dead on after double checking the dump pipe. I don't know what to do...

If I do end up needing to buy a new turbo, I want to go hi-flow if I dont get a brand new one from nissan. What turbo do you think is best for under 1000 dollars (pre shipping)?

Thanks for all your help in advance guys,

Paul

EDIT: Car is a R33 Series 2 Manual Turbo. 125,000kms stock turbo (not boosted).

Mate that sucks! sorry to hear it. I dont know much about that sor tof thing to make a comment on what caused it.

In terms of highflow for under 1k , sliding performac eis ur best bet. Check out the traders section there should be a slide add in there.

For under a grand you really only have the slide highflow as an option.

Regarding the failure, I'd be guessing without seeing the dump pipe but i doubt the turbo failed due to overboosting, more likely the turbine has been knocked/fractured when the install happened and has failed once the turbine speed got up.

Yep, they will highflow it even with a busted wheel... just make sure to read the Journal Bearing Vs Ball Bearing turbo thread before you spend your money.. cause there is a ball bearing highflow group buy atm...

cheers

This sounds like a classic case of heat shock. How long did you allow for the car to warm up before booting it? They do need a little while. I know the urge to try it out is great straight after an upgrade, but you need to at least give it a few hundred metres, preferably a couple of kays, before lighting the burner.

The ceramic turbine is most susceptible when still relatively cool, and the opened up zorst will allow the thing to spin faster so both will add up to crap in the cat and no whoosh.

Try Slide but he may be out of 25 kits. Check his thread.

yeh dude it was warming up for around 3 mins before i took it out, the turbo i dont know tho. it shouldnt have gone past at most 10psi if there was a psi increase, it went RIGHT past it. (and i couldnt pull off foot in time)

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

Well No.1 there is a problem with overboosting if it went right past 10psi, actuator staying closed?

No.2 Who knows what boost it hit, a combination of relatively cool idle exhaust temps, then a big first gear hit, big boost = big turbo RPM + large exhaust temp change = recipe for ceramic failure.

No.3 May have been some damage done to the wheel when installing exhaust, a fracture or complete breakage causing unbalances wheel and it eating itself on the walls of the turbo.

Best get a sliding performance turbo if your looking for a cheap 'upgrade' replacement turbo.

Fixxxer :P

My armchair-expert advice (as a slide turbo user) is to grab a turbo of Aaron (slide) here on these forums, awesome things they are. Might take some time, but send him a PM to see where he is with stock and order timeframes etc. Slide FTW!!11!!!11

As for the boost going straight past 10psi, sounds like unlimited boost, as paulr33 mentioned.... seems as if they have hooked up the vacuum lines incorrectly. I did this once myself and was lucky to notice the boost guage showing me 1 bar of boost, in my instance it was like this for 1 second but didnt blow the turbo (45000kms less usage then yours - may have had something to do with it).

When turbo came off I was surprised to see that it was in such good condition, 66skylineGT took one look and snapped it up for his Rb20det '69 'Line.

Damn man, probably a fault from the exhaust place - get the vacuum lines checked out asap (I recommend in their presence) by a skyline mechanic (maybe a local sau expert?) and go from there.

Does your new dump pipe happen to have a wastegate and turbo gas seperator?? im thinking that possibly it isnt a very good quality dump pipe and that somehow the seperator is blocking the wategate flap from fully opening hence causing it to overboost and blow the turbo!

that is what I thought innitially freek but when I looked at the dump pipe after the turbo had gone, he measured it in front of me and apparently "it could not have been so"

so if the wastegate actuator was not working, then causing X boost then it must be their fault for doing that. only a fu*(*)(# moron whos )(*#&_( could do such a think as this. these people supposed to do this stuff for a living they cant make mistakes, its other peoples money they are playing with. I should have gone to ET and payed an extra 200. I've learnt for next time.

Just a squirt above 10psi should not have hurt the turbo.

There are many people who have had it spike to 14/16psi for a second without much of an issue.

If the car was already warm... even then 100meteres really isnt there far.

Its probably just your turbos time to die really.

Not a person can predict when it will die, its just one of those things.

I have a couple of theories:

1/ As Ash has just mentioned; just could be rootten timing and it was about to let go even b4 the exhaust was done. I had my std turbo set to 13psi full-time for one year and had no problems, but i was willing to play the game of "turbo russian roulette" :laugh: .

2/ Easiest way to check if the exhaust was responsible, would be to disconnect the actuator from the wastegate flap, by removing the pin. Then check to see whether the flap has full motion and does not hit the exhaust. Should only take a few mins to check and will clear or condem the w/shop in question.

I have also heard good things about Slide, but never used him myslef.

Good Luck

hey mate, yes the flap was opening and closing, couldnt have been the dumps fault. so it was probably damage to wheel during install or just its time to die... now im getting brand new GT3040 Turbo, SS Manifold from the USA all for 800 dollars AU delived to my door. I have found the ultimate contact and he owes me a favour so this I think warrants it.

I'll get the 3040 in 2 weeks and itll go straight on and yeh thats it... thanks for all your suggestions to the fault, it was very interesting running it by the guy who custom made my dump and installed it.

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