Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by MotoX

jsut finshed regaping my spark plugs to .75

and toped up my fluid levels with 2x 2L and 1 1.25L coke's mixed with the ramaining bottle of jim. jims been a personal friend for a few weeks now as its getting cold, think im going to be using it all winter. i love jim. but jims gone now. and my cars finished and like yeah i better go to sleep cyas gotta work tomorow and see waht boost i can run. l8ers

uym, i dont think this is a thread to whore in when your pissed wayne!

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, i imported my r33 gtst about 6 months ago now

mods are a pioneer headunit,

6inch splits and 2 ways in the rear,

stacker,

Jaysons leather handbrake and gear boot kit <-- they still look awesome compared to what it came with

3inch catback with big stainless muffler

K&N pod

autometer boost guage

Heavy duty daiken single plate clutch

front mount intercooler (600x200x70)

HKS SSQ bov (which is now not working and i have a plumb back on it again)

greddy turbotimer

apexi avc-r

Guest 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

-how does mifiring manifest itself in your ears as you drive?

-if your R33 is lowered 30mms does it need camber correction kits?

-with just a zorst and Front mount, at what psi would you have to regap from 1.1mm to stop misfiring?

-what gap would you use?

-MotoX - what is the 104 offset you were talking used for?

-So as to stay true to the thread, I will say this:

I have got two quotes for $1400 for bilstein shocks and kings for R33. Is this good? Where is a good suspension place?

-Hey RB26dett - how many kms have you had your HKS cam gears on for?? How you found any wear? Apparently they wear bad after 6000-10000 kms.

:boobs:

Enough Questions?

had the cam gears on for about 2000ks??

i read somewhere they wear out too, but i hope they wun...they seem to be able to hold 1300hp in the HKS drag car so i hope they'd be of a relatively strong build.

apparently, they're not mass produced like other makes. they wait for enough orders before they start up the machine, so they're always pretty new.

and slip...it does feel bulletproof, but takes a hell long time to master

Originally posted by 382 GZV - 4 Door R33

-if your R33 is lowered 30mms does it need camber correction kits?

[/b]

No u dont need a camber kit, ur wheels will have a slight camber but the wear is more even and it takes the same time to wear. If ur going more then 30 mm then yes a camber kit would be a good idea, as well as aftermarket shocks

ummm jsut got back from the tyre shop.

my cars low, the lowest point is 7cm. anyhow i was talking to the guy, known him for ages, and he said there isnt much point in a camber kit, only make my car handle worse around corners.

he charged me $15 for a wheel alignment. nice bloke

I agree the guys at Toombul Bob Jane, so far, I have found excellent to deal with.

Just installed my new gearstick boot from JAY95R33 yesterday and it looks pretty good, just got to do the handbrake now. If anyone has crappy boots I recommend PM ing for the next batch. Definitely good value! Nothing like the smell of real leather!

Mick got a couple of tyres and allignment at Toombul all up price turned out to be the same as our local Bob Jane. Price on the tyres was the same as phone quote from 3 other Bob Janes, so where is the advantage??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...