Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

slightly off topic but I have a few more questions.

and these are all to have the RB30det in an R32 GTST

1.)What ECU. I know obvious choice is PFC.., what are they worth? what are other options?

I ask this because if you factor in a PFC and hand controller, Z32 or Q45 AFM, the price is pretty high and you don't even have it on there yet.

What ECU's are available that don't need AFM but still work well with cold start, fuel consumption and so forth.

2.) 500HP TURBO. internally gated? will this control boost reliably? which one will bolt to the stock RB20/25 exhaust manifoild?

3.) for this turbo and looking at somewhere around 300rwkw.... what dump pipe?

will those dump and front in one jobs from BATMBL on these forums do the trick?

will it be too restrictive and cause over boost problems?

4.) and this has been looked in to kind of. but... for a street only car (with possible trips to track and strip to see how it all goes onec or twice) but mainly a street car.. what size exhaust housing is best?

since I don't plan to rev past 6000rpm nor run more than 1 bar boost.... the 0.82 rear has been given a "light switch" title by some. is it going to be uncontrolable?

will the 1.02 or what ever the bigger one is be too laggy on the street..

example, cruising in 4th at 65km/h (standard R32 gearbox and diff) and you plant your foot..

will the 0.82 end up in a smoke show?

will the 1.02 end up with you at 70km/h after 5 seconds?

take in to consideration the 8.2 or 8.3 compression I will have using stock Rb30 bottom and stock Rb25de head.

slightly off topic but I have a few more questions.

and these are all to have the RB30det in an R32 GTST

1.)What ECU. I know obvious choice is PFC.., what are they worth? what are other options?

I ask this because if you factor in a PFC and hand controller, Z32 or Q45 AFM, the price is pretty high and you don't even have it on there yet.

What ECU's are available that don't need AFM but still work well with cold start, fuel consumption and so forth.

2.) 500HP TURBO. internally gated? will this control boost reliably? which one will bolt to the stock RB20/25 exhaust manifoild?

3.) for this turbo and looking at somewhere around 300rwkw.... what dump pipe?

will those dump and front in one jobs from BATMBL on these forums do the trick?

will it be too restrictive and cause over boost problems?

4.) and this has been looked in to kind of. but... for a street only car (with possible trips to track and strip to see how it all goes onec or twice) but mainly a street car.. what size exhaust housing is best?

since I don't plan to rev past 6000rpm nor run more than 1 bar boost.... the 0.82 rear has been given a "light switch" title by some. is it going to be uncontrolable?

will the 1.02 or what ever the bigger one is be too laggy on the street..

example, cruising in 4th at 65km/h (standard R32 gearbox and diff) and you plant your foot..

will the 0.82 end up in a smoke show?

will the 1.02 end up with you at 70km/h after 5 seconds?

take in to consideration the 8.2 or 8.3 compression I will have using stock Rb30 bottom and stock Rb25de head.

Suggestions follow;

1. PFC is the go, it is cheaper all up, the install is a simple plug in, car will run on the base maps, drive it to the dyno, $300 job finished.

2. GT30 (do a search plenty of guys have used GT30's on RB25's)

3. BATMBL split dumps will work fine, don't understand the boosting question.

4. The 0.82 would be my choice as I prefer response, I can use the boost controller to soften the boost hit if I want.

:)

GT35/40's what .AR's does everyone recomend? .82 or 1.02?

Clearly due to a limited rev limit, youd want something on early? I'm chasing 300 rwkw at low rpm with minimal boost. Leaning towards the .82 with a 35mm wastegate.

i have a td0620g. r33 rb25head. stock rb30 bottom end. 8 psi. 230rwkw. hits boost very low in the rev range. full on by 2200

the overboosting I was refering to...

Some cars I've seen (mitsubishi's), when the dump pipe or wastegate itself are too restrictive, they tend to over boost or spike up to above what you set it.

don't know wether to call it boost spike or creep or over boost.

and with a largish turbo, and a dump pipe where the wastegate and turbine gases aren't seperated, I thought it might be an issue... but if you disagree, that's a good enough for me.

and with a largish turbo, and a dump pipe where the wastegate and turbine gases aren't seperated, I thought it might be an issue

I thought I covered that with this;

3. BATMBL split dumps will work fine

A split dump separates the wastegate and turbine gases. Or have I missed something :confused:

:)

looney head - it seems that 6000-6500rpm is a safe rev limit

Gary - sorry. when I was refering to BATMBL's dump pipes, I was refering to the original one piece ones which have a bellmouth type opening at the turbo.

which then shrinks down to a 3 inch pipe.

when I read your reply, I skimmed over it and didn't take in the "SPLIT" part.

do you know the other ones I am refering to?

this pic isn't one of his but the shape is kinda similar..

SR%20front%20pipe%201DCP02318.gif

SR%20front%20pipe%202DCP02319.gif

my front pipe had to have a small extender piece welded in. Due to the new height of the motor, the turbo sits higher also. Meaning that the dump/front you are looking at may require some cutting/welding to make it reach your turbo.

Depends how flexible your exhaust is atm. I had mine chopped, as well as had some supports welded to the pipe so i could connect it to the gearbox for added support for the turbo etc...

the overboosting I was refering to...

Some cars I've seen (mitsubishi's), when the dump pipe or wastegate itself are too restrictive, they tend to over boost or spike up to above what you set it.

don't know wether to call it boost spike or creep or over boost.

and with a largish turbo, and a dump pipe where the wastegate and turbine gases aren't seperated, I thought it might be an issue... but if you disagree, that's a good enough for me.

I haven't ever seen that problem on RB's, even with standard dumps and engine pipes. I wouldn't worry about it until you actually experience it on your car.:rofl:

Had my rb30det tuned yesterday.

Previously had what was thought as timing issues. Turned out it was a faulty cas. All sorted....turbo is a rb20 highflow that was on before motor was built.

Results are below. Had issues with the q45 afm...apparently (cubes feel free to go into more detail :)) 1 bar is at the end of the map range.

Shaun, the tuner, said it runs the best when set up with the q45 running as the rb20 afm under the settings. Changing it to the vh45 afm just makes the car run very rich, and he said something like he cant pull any more fuel out?

Cubes....ring shaun for me and get the lowdown on this :) Me no technical :)

Could have run more boost, but like i said need to sort it running rich under boost....

Need subframe bushes now, as the 2 way makes the rear squirm....and breaks traction in 2nd on boost :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...