Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would standard pistons and rods be good for 300rwkw?? i am looking to run a rb30 with stardard bottom end

rb25de head gasket

r32 rb25de head with rb26 valve springs, gtr cams and standard manifold.

what sort of turbo would be best for 260-300rwkw, i am thinking a holset hx35 or a garrett 3040.

does that sound like a good idea. i would like any feed back people have

thanks

it's been mentioned in this thread that the GTRvalve springs can't easily be adapted for the rb25de head.

it would be easier to use the 25det valve springs.

it also been said that with GOOD tuning and supporting mods, keeping boost low, with correct sized turbo, 300rwkw can be achieved using stock na pistons and rods and stock gaskets.

but constant high revs will destroy the stock rods.

not sure about GTR cams in teh 25de head either.

standard manifold is ok.

turbo selection..... I don't know.. not up to scratch with my turbo knowledge in terms of what power the turbo's you've said will produce and at what boost levels.

I think you'd need to be a bit more specific with things like exhaust wheel size and so forth.

Is there a workshop in melbourne that has done the rb31det conversion before that you guys would recommend?

Was going to do most of the work my self but after reading about all the crap people go through with pistons and what not i think i would rather have a warranty.

Id asked this question before.

How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

The Haltech has boost correction dependant on the gear selected, so i plan to use this to soften the power delivery in 1st gear once boost is wound up.

it seems the "search this thread" option is no longer available.

however, SYDNEYKID had stated that GTR valve springs are not a direct replacement for RB25de heads.

it was due to the lifter in 25 heads not being the same setup as the 26 head.

he mentioned that in his first RB30 build when he used the 25de head from an R32, he changed the valve springs and used 25det valve springs.

maybe he'll see this post and confirm or correct me.

Id asked this question before.

How does the ECU tell what gear the manual gearbox is in?

I have a sensor on 1 front wheel which picks up 5 pulses/revolution. You then calculate how many pulses will occur in 1km and enter this value into the sofware. You work out what each gear ratio equates to in kmh/1000rpm and enter the results plus the required boost correction for each gear and plug this into the software.

The ecu now has a speed reference via the wheel sensor in km, and by using the kmh/1000rpm figures plus the engine rpm it can determine which gear you're in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...