R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Cubes]

fixyourbonnetslackarseorban!

[StockyMcStock]

getting there slowly!

[Bl4cK32]

So when's take off, and how long till you reach the moon with that turbo?

[StockyMcStock]

T-minus three or four months with any luck. i bloody well hope the blower gets here before then, never been through US postal before so i hope they're okay.

[Scribble]

I probably missed this but what blower did you elect?

[MarkE]

Wait Wait Wait.

RB30DEST ?

[mr_rbman]

I have my bottom end built now but its pretty much bare, the sump isn't bolted up yet, holes for pulleys haven't been drilled, water pump, oil pump, harmonic balancer etc isn't on there yet but i have everything.

I'm taking the bottom end and head to the engine builder in 3 weeks to get the holes drilled for the pulleys, get the timing belt put on and torqued up, head machined if needed and have the valves reseated if needed and get the head bolted on with the head gasket

What i basically wanna know is what should i bolt up before taking it there and what shouldn't i, was thinking not to put the sump on incase any crap gets in there. I want the engine builder to do as little as possible to save a bit of money and thats why i'm bolting up the water and oil pump etc myself but i just wanna know the order to do it all in!

cheers in advance!

[lukits01]

Thought I'd ask, at what point do the valves need reseating? Is there any way to tell if your head needs to be reconditioned?

[Cubes]

mr_rbman,

I would bolt up the head, waterpump, oil pump and crank cambelt drive gear.

This is so the engine builder can mock up the location to ensure the belt is tight enough and the cam belt covers fit.

Sump, thats up to you, it really doesn't matter if its there or not.

Leave the harmonic balancer off.

Edited October 3, 2005 by Cubes

[mr_rbman]

mr_rbman,

I would bolt up the head, waterpump, oil pump and crank cambelt drive gear.

This is so the engine builder can mock up the location to ensure the belt is tight enough and the cam belt covers fit.

Sump, thats up to you, it really doesn't matter if its there or not.

Leave the harmonic balancer off.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

but if i bolt up the head and it needs to be machined isn't it a waste of time and a head gasket?

bolting up the water pump won't interfere with drilling the holes for the pulley's will it?

Edited October 3, 2005 by mr_rbman

[Bl4cK32]

Cubes and myself had the head rebuilt ready to go before the bottom end was even started....might be a good idea to do that first.

The waterpump is below the extra deck height where the pulley sits. Depending on how the builder drills it, it may not or may be a problem

[mr_rbman]

Cubes and myself had the head rebuilt ready to go before the bottom end was even started....might be a good idea to do that first.

The waterpump is below the extra deck height where the pulley sits. Depending on how the builder drills it, it may not or may be a problem

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i see, no worries. the guy putting my engine together will be doing my head, thats the reason for not putting it on, i think i'll just spend the extra and let him put it on!

[StockyMcStock]

it's an Eaton M90 from the states, same as the ones used on the late model commodores over here. lots cheaper to get one sent over trust me, they're a dime a dozen over there!

and yes you did hear me say RB30DEST

it's a bit of a fun engine to build, this one. very very strange but you will be surprised how well it will work.

[joe2548]

Hey all,

im going ahead with this conversion, but am having trouble with the timing belt,

i want to leave the tensioners down low(cbf drillin more holes for the hell of it)

so im told the belt i need is a Gates Powergrip GT2- 1200 8MGT 30.... i have found one of these, however it needs to be 25mm wide(30mm std) did people cut these down themselves(sounds a bit dodgy) or can the factory cut them down for you??

and who do i ring to get the right belt??

[Bl4cK32]

So you cbf drilling a hole, but you wanna cut down the timing belt...?

Why not drill the hole, then use the 94407 belt from dayco - which is a straight fit

[Roy]

So has anyone found a strut brace that clears the plenum, and still allows the bonnet to close?

[Cubes]

lmao

What u doing in here again Roy...

No we haven't, there is one that positions the brace towards the front of the t/b, from what I remember, bl4ck32 said the issue with his strut brace is it fouls the cross over pipe's rubber hose that connects to the t/b.

Edited October 6, 2005 by Cubes

[shanef]

I am too doing this build/rebuild after the turbo let go.

Rb30 bottom n rb26 head.

As stated in the pdf guide, if you position the engine lower (i.e. lower the mounts) there should be no problem with clearance? Especially with the rb26 head, as the plenum sits lower.

Please correct me if im wrong

Also, guys what internals did you use? What combonation worked the best for you?

Shane

[Cubes]

The RB25 plenum setup even with the engine lowered won't have the usual strut brace fitting up without fouling.

RB26 obviously fits.

You could always fit up a greedy style plenum to the 25. But that adds to the cost if you are only after upwards of 300rwkw.

[lukits01]

So a RB25/30 combination with an aftermarket plenum e.g. sub-zero or greddy would fit without modifications to the engine mount? and a normal strut brace would fit on top of that?