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GTR head is the way I would go if I were to do it again.

Stuff lowering the motor via engine mount mods.

+ GTR heads always sound a little different/tougher than the GTST's.

Unsure if its the twin turbo or if its the cam spec's.

Edited by Cubes
GTR head is the way I would go if I were to do it again.

Stuff lowering the motor via engine mount mods.

+ GTR heads always sound a little different/tougher than the GTST's.

Unsure if its the twin turbo or if its the cam spec's.

Joel,

from reading your guide, i didnt think u had to lower the motor in an r32 if you used the correct head and inlet plenum. That is the r32 rb25 head and lower half of plenum and the rb20 top half of the plenum. Is this correct? I am looking at putting togetther a rb25/30 very soon.

Thanks

Sky30,

How many more kays have you racked up since you dropped the motor in with its 270,000km's? ;)

26GTS,

Have another read of the guide, on page 6 there is a few notes on engine mounts.

It states....

The RB30DET block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks.

This causes a few fouling issues with the bonnet when used with the high Rb25 stock inlet manifold/plenum.

The Rb26 inlet manifold/plenum doesn't have these issues as it sits much lower.

If you want to run the stock rb25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the drivers side and 12mm on the passengers side.

You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwies the fan will much it up.

blah blah.... just one more reason to use the rb26 head. :angry:

Edited by Cubes
Sky30,

How many more kays have you racked up since you dropped the motor in with its 270,000km's? :O

26GTS,

Have another read of the guide, on page 6 there is a few notes on engine mounts.

It states....

The RB30DET block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks.

This causes a few fouling issues with the bonnet when used with the high Rb25 stock inlet manifold/plenum.

The Rb26 inlet manifold/plenum doesn't have these issues as it sits much lower.

If you want to run the stock rb25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the drivers side and 12mm on the passengers side.

You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwies the fan will much it up.

blah blah.... just one more reason to use the rb26 head. :)

but trying to work out how to lower the engine mounts is tough, i can't work out which part of the mounts to lower!

Heres my story..

I've reread what was written in this thread for the second time and I have to ask a few more clarifying questions?

Here is what I would like to use?

RB30E block from a R31 Nissan Skyline, I have this already and everything for the oil and water return only need to be unscrewed from the block.

I want to have the block stripped down and the usual, acid clean, machine and hone block to suit pistons and balance the crank.

Am I correct in saying that I should wait to buy a flywheel and clutch before I have the crank balanced? I have noticed that the cranks are nitrited (sp) so I shouldn't have to have anything else done to it.

Can someone explain to me the casting dags on the inside fully of the block? When I go to see a photo the pics aren't there. I just want to know where exactly it is so I can inspect my block to see what needs to be taken off.

One other thing for the block, wtf is meant by 'alignment / machining of centre journals'

Bearings? Standard ones from what I've read seem ok. I noticed that someone mentioned nizmo big end at the start of the thread. Are there any other brand bearings that could be used? It would appear that the standard Nissan mains are fine? Or was that the other way around? I don?t want to scroll through 150 pages to find it now?

Conrods? I want the bottom end to be built once and once only. From what I can gather the standard rods with a little bit of work should be able to handle around 550hp. What options do I have regarding forged connecting rods?

I am thinking of using the RB26DETT oil pump with JUN adapter along with the RB26DETT water pump.

Oil squirters? Are they really needed? Obviously they will cool the pistons but from what I have read they are quite a pain to install into the block. 25t I believe blocked the holes that he ?drilled? up. Is it worth doing for high HP applications. Also, can someone give me a rough price to have them installed and where they should go as the image someone displayed is no longer showing ? nearly 2 years ago since it was posted. I am looking at using the Wiseco forged pistons?

I will also look at using an Rb26 head gasket. But it would appear that any RB25/26 gasket would suit?

I've noticed the position the cambelt tensioner and idler pulley should be installed so fingers crossed that wont be a problem.

VCT? Variable Cam Timing? Does the Rb26DETT head have that? Lol?

If so, drill, tap and die a fitting into the oil presser sender port and plum it into the vvt feed gallery? Does that sound about right?

That's about all I can ask for now. If someone would like to assist me with those questions than it would be greatly appreciated.

I was also thinking of keeping the top end stock until I get more money and using the RB25Det gearbox and a Exedy twin plate clutch.

I hope all the parts out of my 200sx can help pay for a lot of this. Hopefully it will, if not than I'll keep saving.

Pubes, I mean Cubes...

Its strange how they say they are specific for the RB30 with 25DET head... Might have to email them and ask what the go is... hehe

just drill the new hole below on where the mount bolts to the block.

But Where the mount bolts to the block it has 4 bolts either side connecting the bracket to the block!

Is it just one hole that needs redrilling on each mount, i'm thinking its where the bracket goes to the mount? Do you know if when shaun did it he welded the holes up then redrilled them?

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