Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone had harmonic problems in the timing belt? I have an issue at about 2000rpm where the timing belt vibrates fairly badly. It goes away after that and has some smaller harmonic periods further up. Just wondering if anyone has had the same problem?

RB30/25

Tensioner up top in the block

Gates timing belt

P.s. I don't know how to search this thread to find specifically where info is and I can't read 155 pages- I may die

Has anyone had harmonic problems in the timing belt? I have an issue at about 2000rpm where the timing belt vibrates fairly badly. It goes away after that and has some smaller harmonic periods further up. Just wondering if anyone has had the same problem?

RB30/25

Tensioner up top in the block

Gates timing belt

P.s. I don't know how to search this thread to find specifically where info is and I can't read 155 pages- I may die

Are you using the powergrip belt? The tooth profile does not match the cam gear and could cause the harmonics issue.

RBtwin, mines perfectly fine, no strange noises no strange wobbles or vibrations.

I used the Dayco belt.

I have also made mention of the apparent different tooth profile with the Powergrip belt in the guide.

Edited by Cubes

Okay the Dayco one went on. The harmonic has moved but its still there. Its not as bad- there is no noise, but it really sh1ts me. There is one at about 1500rpm and one at about 2600rpm. The belt goes through the harmonic because down the long side it gets a wave to it that has an amplitude of about 5mm each way at a guess.

Can anyone verify a harmonic? You need someone to look at the belt while you rev the motor up slowly. Mine only lasts for 50rpm or less. You can see it between the cam gears but easier to see down the drive side of the belt.

I am using a VL balancer- nothing flash and I have tried two different ones. The tensioner and idler have bearings in VGC. If this isn''t the problem the next port of call is to test rig the cam/spring combo. I don't want to do that! lol

The loose side of the belt on mine at certian rpm's does look like it goes a little blury. I guess this is what you are calling harmonics?

I wouldn't say it wobbles 5mm though, looks like maybe half a mm but really quick so it looks like its not moving just slightly blury.

The drive side (right side looking at the motor from the engine bay) is always nice and tight with no bluryness.

With regards to the tensioners. I bought one genuine nissan one and then a genuine holden. They are basically the same apart from holden skimping out and running only 1 bearing instead of 2 that nissan do.

The holden one is ever so slightly cheaper.

Nissan use two bearings side by side within the shell that the belt runs on.

Holden use one bearing located in the center of the shell.

I didn't bother with using an idler as Nissan wanted $280 for one. lol What a joke. The tensioners the rb's use are locking tensioners so if anything they should be more expensive than the idler due to a slightly more complex design.

If that make sense. :S

Edited by Cubes

Ive found some good information having talked to the man at ACL in Auckland, NZ (distributor) re forged pistons. This guy knew absolutely everything which was a huge help.

ACL and Ross Forged Pistons are owned by the same company .

Ross make the pistons for ACL that fit into the rb30. They are however sold as ACL pistons but have the quality of a ross piston.

These pistons are a custom piston made to suit the rb25 head as the standard rb30et pistons would have a very low 7 compression ratio.

They run about an 8.5.1 compression ratio and come in either 0.5mm oversized or 1mm oversized

Also they sell race bearings for the engine.

Part Numbers

6mkry9608 1mm oversized forged piston

race bearings

H Series bearing

6b2390 H Standard size Big Ends

7m2394H Standard size Mains

Hope that helps clear up some myths

Edited by SirRacer
Also they sell race bearings for the engine.

Part Numbers

6mkry9608 1mm oversized forged piston

race bearings

H Series bearing

6b2390 H Standard size Big Ends

7m2394H Standard size Big Engs

Hope that helps clear up some myths

Are theese bearing numbers both big end like you have said, or is one a number for the mains(crank)?? If not what is the main bearings part number?

I am planning on using forged pistons just trying to decide which ones to use. I thought thr rb30 harmonic from a R31 skyline run all ribbed belts it was the VL that had the single belt. Im more concerned with which one is more up to the task ie is one better than the other or I guess I just have to fork out for an ATI dampener.

I ended up getting CP forged pistons for $1250 / set 8.3:1 cr

Chrone forged rings for $270 / set.

The finish on the pistons is absolutely brilliant.

Also using REV rods @ $1550 / set.

Couldn't get oil squirters in though.

What lift are the HKS 264 cams, and how were they in the RB20

Edited by conan7772
Ive  found some good information having talked to the man at ACL in Auckland, NZ (distributor) re forged pistons. This guy knew absolutely everything which was a huge help.

ACL and Ross Forged Pistons are owned by the same company .

Ross make the pistons for ACL that fit into the rb30. They are however sold as ACL pistons but have the quality of a ross piston.

These pistons are a custom piston made to suit the rb25 head as the standard rb30et pistons would have a very low 7 compression ratio.

They run about an 8.5.1 compression ratio and come in either 0.5mm oversized or 1mm oversized

Also they sell race bearings for the engine.

Part Numbers

6mkry9608 1mm oversized forged piston

race bearings

H Series bearing

6b2390 H Standard size Big Ends

7m2394H Standard size Big Engs

Hope that helps clear up some myths

Further to the above, Mahle own ACL. They are the sole manufacturers of pistons/rings in Australia. They also supply Holden, Ford, Mitsubishi and Toyota with their OEM gear. I done some work for them a couple of months ago. Pretty impressive factory.

Platinum- what specs is  turbo  on your motor?

heh, its just a stock r33 turbo, will be using it to run things in for the moment and when I can afford it I'll be getting a nice gt42 + 6boost manilfold!

heh, its just a stock r33 turbo, will be using it to run things in for the moment and when I can afford it I'll be getting a nice gt42 + 6boost manilfold!

You could fit a high flow cartridge into that for about $1900.

Keep the stock manifold and plumb in a BOV. Cheaper than a whole new turbo kit, new manifold, new induction pipes plus labour.

My R33 had it done before I bought it, managed 247 rwkw @ 12psi, actually held 15 quite well.

The best configuration was to set it at 18psi for 3 secs then back to 15psi through the scrambler function on the boost controller.

The sound of the induction is awesome, with a low flutter on decelleration.

The compressor inlet was bored to take a 56 mm compressor wheel (inducer), a 500 hp ball bearing core fitted, hot side took a steel wheel with more trim, spools up very quick , could break traction easily.

Should get the RB30 fitted hopefully next week, I'll be leaving this turbo on for now, will post performance specs later. :)

Edited by conan7772
I ended up getting CP forged pistons for $1250 / set 8.3:1 cr

Chrone forged rings for $270 / set.

The finish on the pistons is absolutely brilliant.

Also using REV rods @ $1550 / set.

Couldn't get oil squirters in though.

What lift are the HKS 264 cams, and how were they in the RB20

The cams have 9.0mm lift direct fits probably a bit of overkill for the rb20 but when everything comes on together is a good hit, should be nice in the RB30.

Where did you get your CP pistons from?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...